P0117 on Mazda 626 + symptoms

Firstly, I apologize for posting a mazda issue to a Toyota thread, but the fact is that over the past three years that I have been frequenting this group, I have grown to trust the replies (diagnostic/advisory) of the members that frequent this group, and I could not find a mazda group in alt.autos.

Car in question is my friend's 1998 Mazda 626, 6 cyl, 65 k mi. CEL came on last week and has been on intermittently for the past week. It came back on tuesday morning and has been on since then. He took the car over to Pepboys, where they retrieved the P0117 code (ECT input voltage low).

Other symptoms : AC does no blow cold air after the car has warmed up!!! (its 91 degrees in NJ). Its almost as if the ac compressor clutch disengages once its attained normal opertaing temperature. The coolant temperature gauge stays at half scale while the car is idling but shoots to the Hot mark while driving. If you turn the fan on to high speed and the cabin temperature selector to HOT, the coolant temperature drops to 3/4ths hot scale. Pepboys wanted USD 90/- to run the engine diagnostics. They think it may be the ECT sensor/ thermostat/ AC refrigrant too low ??. I had him buy a haynes manual, which demonstrates the procedure to check and replace ECT, which we are going to do today. My question is what other things to look at/consider if the sensor check comes up blank..ie is the ECT sensor is ok.

Appreciate your feedback.

Reply to
pintoo
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  1. Check to make sure the engine cooling fan is running. You probably hava a 2nd fan that comes on when the ac is engaged. CHeck that too.
  2. Coolant when was it changed last? How about that thermostat, when was it changed? I would do both now.
  3. ECT sensor? Check it with the haynes manual first.
  4. The AC state of charged can be checked and refilled by the dealer IF that is the problem. Look for loose or dirty connectors while in there.
Reply to
Rob

He bought the car used @ 30K miles, and has no recollection of ever flushing the coolant...phew. The fans do come on (both of them) when the ac is running... what would this imply though...does it mean that the thermostat is opening ... atleast partially. I think the refrigrant charge is ok otherwise it would never blow cold air while warming up. Will followup with the ECT sensor check. Thanks.

Reply to
pintoo

You could have a hose that is collapsing when it gets hot cutting the water flow? Any debris on the outside of the radiator? Leaves etc should be washed off. I would change coolant and thermostat anyway. I wonder if someone changed the coolant sometime to the old green prestone and that may have plugged the radiator. Find out what mazda uses and buy it..

Reply to
Rob

The ECT Sensor checked out ok. The coolant was level was low, and topping up the coolant made the light go away...(the code may still be stored though)....

Reply to
pintoo

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