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40 amp fusible link popping

I have a 1994 toyota pick-up with the 22re motor. The groundwire from the alternator to the firewall used to burn up when atempting to start. Now that I have put a 10 gauge groundwire on, the truck ran find for months. Today the radio and all of my gauges suddenly stop working while I was driving and the motor started to miss really bad. I cut the truck off and went to start it back up, nothing happen. ckeck the fuse box under the hood and the 40amp fusable link was blown. Replaced the fusable link and the truck started up and ran for about two or three minutes and the same thing happened, radio went off and all the gauges stop working. There are know sign of any thing touching as far as up under the hood or in the cab. Can someone tell me whats going on.

Reply to
mudgymens
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The starter current should be from the engine block through the ground wire between the engine and the battery. Have you checked all of your ground wires for continuity? As a suggestion, take the ground cable off of the battery, and the small ground wire from the fender/firewall. Use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the large ground wire to the engine. It should be zero ohms.

Reply to
Jarhead

Except this current problem is likely not a problem of continuity, but of a short-circuit, likely of a positive wire touching the chassis somewhere. Or a bad solenoid, or some such thing. The fact that the groundwire you mentioned burnt up upon starting suggests OTHER ground wires were not grounding properly, as Jarhead mentioned. But I think that's a different problem. Wouldn't hurt, tho, to sleuth that out as well. Is the 40 amp fuse the main fuse? If not, this is good, as it will narrow things down if you trace them backwards. Get a few more, maybe 30's to be safe, and see if you can detect warm wires. Sometimes wires within a harness can be shorted, usually as a result of a previous short. So you fix the first short, and you are still stuck w/ the second short, in the harness! If you can get the car started again, be prepared to disconnect various components before the fuse blows, such as the starter, alternator, the battery itself, to help isolate the problem. If the problem stops after one of these disconnections, you have further narrowed it. I don't think, tho, the starter is fused at all, as it draws too much juice. But the coil of the solenoid itself is probably fused. Post to rec.autos.tech, as there are a cupla electrical wizards there.

---------------------------- Mr. P.V.'d formerly Droll Troll

Reply to
Proctologically Violated©®

etc etc Pull the neg wire from the battery, put a test lamp or dmm between the neg terminal and the neg wire end. any voltage readings? does test lamp light....no continue on, turn on key. Got a reading or a light? If so pull fuses till the light gowes out or the reading on dmmm zeros. The light or the reading indicated a short circuit to ground condition, pull fuses should isolat the circuit. Happy hunting. ((I'm being a little facetious there) MLM

Reply to
john Q pubic

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