Manual Key Entry

If it only works on one of the front doors it's not the key.

Different locks on your 4Runner (ignition, doors, glove box) use different combinations of cuts on the key so the problem is not necessarily the key. Your door lock may have something abrasive that is wearing down the wafers, effecting that lock.

If you have the little tag with the code number that came with the keys, you can take it to a locksmith and have a key made a lot cheaper than having the dealer cut it. Plus, if the new key still doesn't open the door but does open the rear door and starts the car, it's probably the lock. Making the key is a cheap diagnostic. Having the locksmith take out the door lock and replacing the wafers is a lot cheaper than having the dealer do it.

Skip

Have you tried lubricating the lock? I've seen locksmiths use a compound in a little aerosol? can with a nozzle that fits in the lock (graphite I think?) as well as WD-40. Using the little red straw and a rag let it run out of the lock for at least a count of 10. I did some digging. Most of the locksmith/lock manufacturer sites I checked say to use WD-40, another says no oils (too sticky, will foul the cylinder) only silicon sprays should be used. Another site warns away from graphite due to the fact it may cause the locking mechanism to stick. Guess you can try one of those and see if it helps at all.

As an aside, I found this link which might prove handy to anyone reading:

Good advise but allow me to go a little further. WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD stands for water displacement and is a fairly good light duty solvent. If you leave it in too long it may dry to a petroleum sludge. If you want to try it, give it about a minute and then try the key. If some glop was the problem the key should work. If not, it's probably the wafers in the lock.

If this works, let it stand for a while and then put some liquid lubricant in. That should flush out the WD-40 and allow the real lube to do it's work. If you mix liquid lube with graphite you tend to get mud.

I use WD-40 to clean installed locks because a little spillage won't do much except strip of some car wax. Once the lock is out if the WD-40 isn't doing the job, I go to brake cleaner.

Skip

Absolutely! I have two 96 Toyotas, including a RAV4 and Tacoma. The same thing happened to both. All of a sudden it seems, I would stick the key into the ignition, and have a heck of a time being able to turn the ignition switch. The first time it happened, I wondered if it was the key, so I got out one of the original keys that came with the truck that I hadn't used, and WHAT A DIFFERENCE! So I took the original tag that comes with the keys, and had the dealer make me another couple of "originals". Everything works fine now. The same result happened when I had the same problem with my Rav4. If you come upon a locksmith who can make a key from the numbers on the keytag, then it will probably be cheaper. My local toyota dealer recently gave me three sets of key options, with an original toyota key blank costing $12, a Curtis key [with plastic covered top] was $7, and a Curtis allmetal key was $4.50. It is certainly cheaper to get another key made than to go to all the trouble of removing the locks. Oh yeah, I too had the same trouble with the door locks, and again, this solved the problem. However, another solution which makes it easier is to put a little 3in1 oil on the key, and insert it into the locks back&forth a few times. This works wonders too. Good luck.

--Jim

The VIN isn't any help in having key made you need the key tag with the 4 digit code.

Thanx to everyone for the help. Had a locksmith remove/replace the lock tumblers on both doors using the VIN. Only cost $100.00 exactly for parts/labor.