Oil and filter for Tundra

I don't think there's anything "small engine" about Castrol oil. I used nothing but Castrol in my 77 GMC Jimmy and it did fine for over

200,000 miles.

Skip

Castrol is very good, as are Chevron/Havoline, the ConocoPhillips brands including 76 & Kendall, and Pennzoil. I'd do an oil and filter change now, then every 5000 miles after that.

I use OEM Toyota/Denso filters. You also might consider Purolator Pure One if you want a premium filter (as good as Mobil 1 filters and cheaper), and WIX & NAPA-Gold, Baldwin & Hastings, and Purolator Premium Plus for top quality ordinary filtration. These filters are small, but completely adequate.

Ken

More important than the oil manufacturer is that you change it at the recommended intervals or sooner. Personally, I use Castrol GTX in everything I drive. If you live in a cold climate, I'd stick with

5w-30. If you live out West, then 10w-40. The manufacturer recommended 5w-30 is a national average, but this viscosity WILL NOT stand up to warmer climates like Arizona or Nevada, nor in New York city stop & go traffic. Pennzoil & Chevron are also great. With the filter, BE SURE to buy one which has an anit-drain back valve built in to GREATLY EXTEND the life of your engine!!!

I would not hesitate for one second to use Castrol in a V8 motor.

I'm not endorsing Castrol, but I use it in my cars and trucks. If you like to use Castrol, then use it. It'll be fine in your V8.

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Phisherman at snipped-for-privacy@nobody.com wrote on 3/6/06 4:07 PM:

I'm switching mine to Mobil One synthetic at the first oil change here in a few weeks... It's not necessary per se but it is undeniably better oil than dino oil.

-jeff

I would only add to the advice you've gotten so far is pick a brand and stick with it. That's not to say you can never change a brand or type but you shouldn't do it every oil change or every other change, just because Brand X is on sale. Changing brands can cause sludge as the additive packages are different and some may not mix well with other brands. HTH, davidj92

I've been using Castrol GTX in everything I drive since the mid 70's and it's fine. Castrol was originally touted as engineered with small engines in mind, but it's fine for all.

I've only changed it once thus far and used a Fram filter. If you do too, you'll notice the difference in filter length. I called Fram and they said size doesn't matter...the age old story - LOL!

I had a bit of a mess on my hands after the filter change because I did not remove the stock skid plate. I'm due for another change this week and will definitely remove it this time. Group members say it's a pretty easy task - like 5 bolts.

Nate

Nate, I never take off the skid plate, try using a large zip lock bag or really any large plastic bag. I turn the filter with the bag and when it and the oil come out they both go into the bag. You may get a little spill but not very much. Then I just zip it up and toss it.

Myself, I'm a fan of Quaker State, have used it for 30 years now.

Tdubya

Thanks for the thought. Another had mentioned a similar method. My spillage was mostly due to the residual after the filter was removed and now I want to clean up the skid plate, etc. I might just give the bag a go though!

I started with Quaker State and after buying a very used and abused 1962 Spitfire went to Castrol because of their small engine claim. Marketing ploy no doubt, but they've been fine as was Quaker State before that.

Thanks.