Re: 86 1 Ton 22RE Starting Problem - I'm Stumped

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86 1 Ton 22RE Starting Problem - I'm Stumped Group: alt.autos.toyota.trucks Date: Sat, Jun 28, 2003, 11:30am From: rf snipped-for-privacy@knology.net (KR) Hi, I have the dreaded intermittent starting on my T. At first, I was getting a half second or so delay. Since I replaced the starter that doesn't happen anymore. Now it is just a click. Sometimes it clicks, other times it starts... no consistency. When it clicks the lights dim. This has been happening about a month. Here is what I have done so far:
  1. Replaced starter (entire unit).
  2. Cleaned battery connectors and posts.
  3. Had battery checked at a local auto parts store. It is 3 years old, a cheap Wal-Mart one.
  4. Good cable to the starter -- replaced a couple of years ago.
  5. Checked all connections that I could find.
  6. Verified good grounding to the engine. Some threads I have read indicate that a new battery solved their problem.

For those in the know, let me pose this question.

Is there a particular battery condition where it would read good on a battery tester, when in fact it is bad?

I'm not against trying a new battery if I can't find anything else out. It has been out of replacement warranty for nearly a year. Thanks in advance for the reply. KR .......... KR, very good post. I like the way you layed it out...numbers and all, good deal. Then the question at the end.

As to your problem............

Does it have the clicking sound when the engine is hot or cold? First thing in the morning? After driving for about 15 or 20 minutes? How often is it doing it?

First thing is, check your cables one more time at the battery side. Cut and peel back the insulation on the cable and see if there is any heavy buildup on the wires under the sheathing. If there is a lot of white and light blue powdery buildup, I would highly reccomend changing the cable before going any further. Or at least attempt to cut the cable back far enought to eliminate the condition. If the delay was cured with the new starter...but now you have the tell-tell click of a selonoid getting low current, then I would first check the altenator output to make sure it's working good. Start the engine and check the voltage. If it's putting out right at 14 volts, cut all the lights, AC, radio and other accessories on and make sure it maintains it. The next step is a little tricky if the clicking is intermittent. With the engine off, turn the key on and turn all the lights and accessorie back on again. Let it sit like that for at least 20 minutes. Then cut start the vehical and immediately check the altenator output and see if it's above 14 volts...close to 15 or a little more. If the altenator is capable of recharging the battery, the next step would be to load test the battery and be sure the guy at the parts store knew what he was doing. Call around to some mechanic shops and find one that's willing to test the battery for you. A lot of shops will be more than willing to acquire new customers by offering a basic test for free. It's cheap advertisement so don't be hesitant to call and ask. Make sure they will charge the battery for you first for about an hour, and then do the test. Just be willing to drop it off and pick it up later. And just carry the battery, not the truck. It's more convenient for the shop, and you don't want to impose on them....yet. I started to tell you how to check it yourself...but I went back and erased it all. I don't want to be the reason you loose your sight. LOL You could cut all the lights and accessories on for about 20 minutes and check the battery voltage, but a shops tester is more convenient and the load tester is a more accurate test. My guess would be that you still either have a ground problem or a bad battery if it doesn't do it more prevalent after driving with the headlights on, meaning the altenator would be suspect.

Tech Tip

Some shops offer free charging and starting system diagnosis. It's cheap advertisement. But it's a little dishonest on the customer's part if they don't intend to let the shop fix it.

good luck. keep us posted....

.gibson6string.. ==================================

Reply to
Guitar Boogie
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Hi there,

I had the same annoying problem for a long time. Tried troubleshooting EVERYTHING and it all checked out. Replaced the stater and battery, bypassed the neutral start swith, etc.

I could always start it buy running a jumper straight from the batt to the starter solinoid... So I tried running a heavyer guage wire from the ignition switch straight to the starter and that fixed my problem. Don't know what was wrong with the original, but the new wire fixed it. Might be worth a try for you too... Brian.

Reply to
Brian

snip... Thanks, Mr. Ed.

I checked the wire off the positive that goes into the fuse block. Looks OK, but I may want to dig a little further to make sure there isn't something I'm missing -- I can't see where it terminates. It does have a lot of tension on the wire, so there could be an issue there. BTW, the negative wire to the fender well is solid and secure from the negative terminal.

Cheers, KR

Reply to
KR

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