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73 Ghia Coupe wont stay running??

Hi All, I pulled my engine yesterday to replace the main seal, got everything put back together and put the engine back in today. After getting everything tightened up I started it up and it immediately died. I started it again and took a short trip around the block and it feels like something is dragging. Unless I'm giving it gas the car lurches and the RPMs drop way faster than they used to... I did have a hard time getting the engine back in this time in fact I was just about to pull it all the way back out when it finally went all the way in.

I replaced the seal and the O ring, made sure the three shims were back in place, cleaned and lubed the gland nut, re installed the flywheel in the same position it was before and torqued the gland to 253ft lbs. There was a lot of oil on the flywheel and pressure plate and little bit on the cluch disk I cleaned everything down as well as I could with some mineral spirits and did a final wipe down with acetone before I put the clutch back in. I used a clutch alignment tool to re install the clutch and torqued the bolts (in the proper sequence) to 18 ft lbs.

I'm racking my brain trying to think of something I did wrong, any help would be appriciated.

Reply to
Tracy
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See if you can turn the engine by hand (grab the gen pulley).

Is the carb idle cutoff wired correctly (clicks when key is on)?

Distrib hose(s) connected and not leaking?

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Hi Speedy, congrats on the "speedy" recovery, welcome back.

I can turn it by hand. (I just tried and turned it a full 360) I'm running duel webber 34, there is no electrical connection on the carbs and I have a centrifugal advance dristributor.

Reply to
Tracy

See if you can get more clues.

Will it get to top speed as it used to?

Any evidence of overheating?

Could it be one carb at fault? Were the carbs removed or disturbed during the engine pull?

Reply to
Speedy Jim

I did pull them for the removal, but I was very careful not to change any of the settings. My thought when the car first stalled was that I need to go through the linkage and adjust/sync them again (just did all that two weekends ago, it *was* running perfectly) I didn't try to get to top speed as I wasnt sure what was wrong. I guess I'll go through the carbs again ASA I get the time...

At least it's not leaking oil any more...

Reply to
Tracy

vacuum leaks at carb/manifold gasket! did you use new gaskets? spray a little carb cleaner at gaskets to see if idle changes

nice to see Speedy back! ;-)

Reply to
One out of many Daves

Ok, I just went throught the linkage and did a base line adjustment on the carbs. Bottom line I had to increase the mix by 1 1/4 turn and the speed by

1 turn more than the adjustment I did two weeks ago to get it to idle. (600 cold and 900 warm) I went for a 5 mile test drive, it didn't overheat and it seems to be running at the same performance levels.

I used a "double lip" seal

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sounds unlikely but could I be noticing the higher drag of the new seal? BTW, I did lube it with motor oil before I installed the flywheel. I did use the same intake seals... In fact, I've removed the carbs several times without changing them I'm a bad boy, I never remember to order new ones... I'll check out your carbourator cleaner recomendation.

Tracy

Reply to
Tracy

richening up the mixture could compensate for a slight vacuum leak at the carb base or intake manifold gasket.

glad you got it up and running well again. ;-)

But you don't want it running too lean at WOT caused by a slight vacuum leak! 8^)

Order a few new gaskets!!!

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Thanks for your help guys, will order (several sets of) intake gaskets today to see if that makes a difference.

Reply to
Tracy

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