Gunk on Outside of Carb?

I'm just starting up my 67 Beetle after a long winter's nap. The car starts fine, runs for about five minutes, and dies. Can't keep her running after warmup.

I notice a lot of reddish-brown gunk on the outside of the carb (30/31) where the gasket is. Does this mean it is leaking gas?

Also have one or two cracked vacuum plugs on the carb that I need to deal with. Where can I get replacements?

Thanks, Susan

Reply to
susansms
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Remove the air cleaner. Put an old towel or something around the carb to protect the paint on the fan shroud etc. Spray the outside of the carb with B-12 Chemtool to remove the reddish-brown gunk. Let dry and remove the towel. Gently tighten the screws that hold the top of the carb to the carb body. I think there are five screws. Remove the fuel hose from the carb. Trim the end of the hose and put it back on with a clamp. That might be all you need to do to stop the leak.

For replacing the cracked vacuum plugs you could try a local auto parts store. I usually use a small piece of emissions hose with a small screw in the end of it.

If it still runs poorly, you may need to rebuild the carb. The simple method, or the 'Bug Me video' method, is to : Remove the big idle adjustment screw and the little air/fuel adjustment screw on the side of the carb. Take a look at the rubber o-rings. If they are worn, replace them after cleaning these two screws. Remove the top of the carb and the gasket. Remove the float bowl plug, it looks like a bolt, on the left side of the carb, Remove the main jet and the idle jet(s). Refer to diagram. Put the nozzle straw on the can of B-12 Chemtool. Spay it through all of the holes. Be careful, don't get it in your eyes. Spray it through the main jet and the idle jet(s) Refer to a diagram and reassemble. Install and adjust the carb.

Note: I tried removing the butterfly from the choke shaft but, I bent the shaft on reassembly. That's why I try this simple method like on the 'Bug Me video' first. I also do not fully immerse the carb in solvent like some do if I can get by with this simple method. If you do that, you will need to remove the choke butterfly, and two rubber diaphragms.

If it still idles poorly, you might have a worn throttle shaft on the left side of the carb. Try and move it back and forth to check for any play. If there is play air can get in and affect the idle and air:fuel mixture.

These links might help:

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The H30/31 carb adjusts just like a 34PICT3 carb
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Reply to
Jim Ed

Definitely don,t use Degreaser. Many are alkaline based. Put an old carby I had in some once, went and had a cuppa , came back and degreaser was greyish and entire surface of carby was etched away. John

Reply to
John

If it is an old carb it probably has the dull grey finish anyway.

Reply to
Jim Ed

Remove aircleaner, rev to aprox 4000 with left hand and imediately place the palm of your right hand over the carb throat, remove just before it stalls, let it rev back up and repeat process three times. I believe it is called the 50-Cent carb rebuild your ways. It is suprisingly effective.

Basicly what you do is creating a huge vacuum inside the induction system clearing out partially blocked passages inside the carb.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

hahaha, that's the "redneck carb rebuild"

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Works wonders 99% of the time :)

Reply to
Jan Andersson

In fact it works on the exact opposite principle of the beer can I just opened. (Shite was that it is the last one).

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

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