Well, I went to get a 1N4005 diode, and they supplied me with an equivalent
1N4001. I installed it in my wire going to the tach and the tach input to the remote starter, and I still have the same problem. Its shutting off the engine after a few minutes. (see previous message for more detail on the problem.
I suppose there is a possibility that this isn't cleaning the signal enough, or maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree here.
MUADIB, I like your suggestion, I should probably try to find an install shop that wont laugh at me, and will actually help me out. Maybe I can pick up one of those modules from them cheap.
The particular remote starter I'm messing with is a Command Start CS
2400/2500. Its a Canadian built unit, but the company has since gone out of business. Its too bad, this is one of the best units I've worked with (despite my problem).
Ryan, I've never installed a remote starter, but had a friend try to put one in his MR2. Could the issue you're having be the fact that the car is a stick, and not automatic? I was under the impression that most remotes offered are for autos only, and are wired to detect whether the car has been put in gear. I think the reasoning is that you don't want your cat accidently stepping on your keys at 2AM and you wake up
4 hours later with a burning hulk in the driveway from it overheating. Or worst case, it starting up in the garage and burning down the house. Or in the mall parking lot where you left it in gear, came out, hit the button from 100 yards away and have it hit the Rent-a-cop in his golf cart.
My problem has nothing to do with the fact that the car is a standard, and not an automatic. Its something else. Here is why:
The 73 and up beetles have a switch on the transmission to warn the driver with the "fasten seatbelt light" to wear their seatbelt as soon as the transmission goes into gear. So, I used this switch, with a relay, to prevent the starter circuit from activating if the shifter is left in gear. It works flawlessly, there is no possible way for the remote starter to engage the engine starter when the transmission is in any gear, including reverse.
The remote starters that you buy now that are for a standard transmission, are essentially the same as an automatic starter, but work differently. With the standard unit, you have to enable the remote start before you leave your vehicle. Then, using the door courtesy light switch, the remote unit detects that the engine was running when you opened the door to leave the car, and once the door closes, keeps it running until you shut it off (with the remote). Then, later on when you want to start the car, you simply use the remote. However, if someone opens the door on the car without using the remote to start the car, it will only start with the key.
In the pioneer days of remote starters, (about 10 years ago up here in Canada) they would use lasers and various types of sensors on the bottom of the shifter, or in the linkage in order for the remote to tell that it is in neutral. That created many problems, and that idea was scrapped several years ago by all remote starter installers/manufacturers.
Also, there is no remote starter on the market that has an unlimited run time. They all shut off the engine after a certain amount of time, some after 10 minutes, some up to 40, it depends on the remote starter unit, and the user usually has a choice of 2 or 3 different run times that they can program in themselves.
I found a forum on
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that might be able to help me with this problem, I'm waiting to see if I get any responses.
1N4001 is not exactly equivalent to 1N4005. 1N4005 lasts about 600 V of reverse voltage and 1N4001 only about
50 V. Might be that the possible high voltage noise in the - side of the coil jumps through the diode and might even eventually fry it.
Since this one makes sense to you, I will make an effort to see if any of the guys at the shop I work , has a spare oneof those sensors................I will see and get back to you , hopefully this weekend.
Artificial Intelligence is no match for natural stupidity.
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