where to go from here?

I was given a 78 VW bus. It comes stock with a 2.0L FI engine. Mine however, did NOT come with the FI system. I suppose the PO installed a Holley 2 barrel carb. I didn't receive any info on the bus or engine so I can only assume that the present fuel pump is the original or the what is supposed to be for the FI, SO....this is pushing more fuel to the carb than I need which is pushing the fuel past the rings and into the oil, blah, blah, blah......anyway does anyone know where I can get the FI system for a reasonable price OR should I stay with the Holley and put in a different fuel pump? Also....as I was draining the fuel tank I noticed rust in thte gas. Do you know a treatment for this problem or if I should try and get a new fuel tank and where can I find one of those???? MY first VW, need help? Any positive feedback is very much appreciated. Thanks, Michael

Reply to
78busVeeDub
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Not practical to go back to FI. There are too many hard to find and expensive parts.

This is what the stock FI pump looks like:

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mounts under the left frame rail..This pump can't be used with carb. Look and see if they haven'tput in a smaller elec pump somewhere.You could also put a fuel pressure gauge on the line to the carb.Should measure 2 psi or so. Put an in-line fuel filter ahead of the pump (wherever it is) to deal with the rust. There are tank rust products you can use also.

You never told us exactly what the problem you're having with the bus is:-)

Recommend buying either the Haynes manual or Bentley shop manual for Buses '68 thru '79. It won't cover your carb setup but you'll be needing it for other things.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

A lot of people do switch from the stock FI to carb. I don't agree with that, but enough people do it that if you are patient and post messages directly requesting '78 bus L-Jetronic stock parts you may well be able to locate them. That said, it leads me to wonder just how much they converted. If they left the stock pump in it, maybe the entire fuel rail is still in place or parts of it. You really ought to pick up the Bentley book as a matter of top priority. If that pump is the stock FI pump it is capable of pressures over 100psi if an open return line isn't provided. With the stock FI system and stock filter regularly replaced, rust is seldom a problem as the fuel is circulated constantly and particles are taken out by the filter. Hard to say what can of worms you have opened!

Oh - one other thing - the stock FI pieces are getting pretty old, so most of the buses that still have them are having problems with deteriorated "formed" hoses, airflow meters that are worn out, and other age related problems, so you may be best off making the carb work. -BaH

Reply to
Busahaulic

If it is a stock fuel pump, it could be bad and leaking fuel into the case instead of being pumped there through the carb. Had that happen to me. New fuel pump fixed the problem.

Reply to
TerryB

A 2.0 FI case does NOT have a mount on the case for the fuel pump. Just the casting is there. Rough, not finished. Only the 1.7 and 1.8 cases have a usable fuel pump mounting surface.

Reply to
Karl

casting is there. Rough,

Should have guessed that it was like that since no one else posted the same thing I did. Boy, do I feel stupid............

Reply to
TerryB

casting is there. Rough,

And the carbed 2.0 of course has a fuel pump mount and occupied by a pump, from the factory :) Just pointing out the obvious in case someone got the idea that no 2.0 cases has it ready.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

casting is there. Rough,

Yea, I knew that ............That's what I meant to say.........awww forget it!

Reply to
TerryB

The centermount carbs are less than desirebale for the type 4 engines. The runners are far too long with not heat. Tends to have a very noticeable hesitation. I would consider strongly selling the centermount and going to a set of duals once you get it up and running. As stated above check the fuel pump[. If you need a new pump consider the rotary pupm from AC.net....a nice piece and John is definitely worth supporting. As far as teh tank goes....well the bad news is it has to come out to treat. POR 15 makes a nice treatment kit that works well. Replace the rubber inlet elbow as well while you have the tank out and any other rubber bits. Agaain AC.net is a great place to get the sealer kit etc. I have met ONE person who successfully pulled the tank with the engine in place..its damn tight and I'm not sure I'd want to attempt it. If you don't want to pull the engine completely, you may consider un hooking the suppport bar, and upper tranny mount bolts and just easing the whole unit down an inch or so to allow more clearance.

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

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