1986 240 dl - Warning Light Issue

Check the small red wire on the rear of the alternator if this comes lose this could cause your complaint

Sounds like your alternator isnt charging, Use a voltmeter on the battery terminals while the car is running and look for more than 12 volts.

"G Klein" wrote in news:O8Fad.6455$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net:

I checked, the wire is connected but,coming apart. (fraying). It definetly needs to be replaced. What kind of wire should I use to reconnect it? And, how difficult will it be to fix? Any direction on how to fix this is appreciated. Thanks.

DJ SIEGE wrote in news:Xns9580B2700BCEEdjsiegecomcastnet@204.127.204.17:

Also I was wondering , Is it a bad idea to drive around with these issues?

Not just more than 12 volts. It should be charging over 13.5, maybe even 14 volts.

I had an alternator problem, and it was just barely keeping things going, charging at about 12.3 volts, but that's not enough to keep the battery fully charged. KennyH

Horsepower is cheaper than therapy.

You aren't charging your battery fully, and you could get somewhere and the car wouldn't start, or if you're driving a long distance it could just stop running somewhere. You can take it to Autozone or another parts store, they usually have a free test that will tell you if you're charging system is okay.

I had the same problem with the dash lights a couple of weeks ago, had to replace the alternator. $72 at Autozone, I did it myself.

If you're lucky, you may just need a set of brushes. These come attached to the regulator, which is what you have to ask for at the parts store. These are $25 at Autozone, and can be replaced without removing the alternator, from above the engine (no crawling around.) I tried this, but they didn't fix my problem. I then exchanged them for a new alternator.

Maybe you have a friend to help you do this? Pretty easy, really. Just need a set of wrenches and maybe some ramps or jack-stands to get the car up off the ground so you can crawl under it easily. KennyH

Horsepower is cheaper than therapy.

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (KHanawalt) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m11.aol.com:

Well, I did'nt listen. I went to visit a friend ,and on the way home from my friends house about 2 cities away from home the car starts to sputter a bit then the dash lights started dimming, then no headlights. Car barely running I made it to the front of my grandparents house and left it there (it would'nt restart) Hell, I was lucky to make it home at

2 in the morning without seeing 1 cop car. Anyway, the worst happened, so any info on what I should do from here is again appreciated.

DJ SIEGE wrote in news:Xns95812577750FFdjsiegecomcastnet@204.127.199.17:

Looks like the wire on the back of the alternator is just falling apart. if I replace the wire looks like it should work again. What kind of wire should I use.

Use the same type of wire you will have to cut the harness outer casing down to find a good piece to splice in to as I said before if the small wire is not attached or not in good shape the alternator will not charge Glenn

"G Klein" wrote in news:2xibd.10321$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net:

Well since you mentioned splicing wires, I might just get a new alternator. Because splicing wires would probably lead to problems in the future. Right?

No even if you purchase a alternator you will still have to either repair the wire or breakdown & purchase the engine wiring harness which is not cheap I had the same problem on my Volvo as I stated just cut the outer casing down until the dried wire is now soft & pliable just cut & splice either with a solderless connector or solder & tape Glenn

"G Klein" wrote in news:Lhmbd.562$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net:

Ok, I'll try that. And thank you.

Your Welcome

DJ SIEGE wrote in news:Xns9581EA5AB9AD1djsiegecomcastnet@204.127.199.17:

The wires are coroded badly. Should I use anything to clean the wire to make the best connection at the splice? If so, what's a good grime cleaner?

There really is not anything that i know of to do that what I have done on my own car is to follow the wire down to were it is in good shape then splice there Glenn

How's the engine wiring harness? It's notorious for falling apart on a few years, including your '86. I had to patch up the harness on my mom's '86 until I have time to replace it, insulation was crumbling off all over.

How many miles are on the car? The voltage regulators (integral to the brush pack) tend to wear out after 150-200k miles, you'll get the same problem, intermittant charging followed by complete failure. Removal is a breeze, installing the new one can be a bit tricky with the angle but it's only two screws in the back of the alternator. Don't force it as the plastic casing can break.

alternator.

No, a new alternator won't stop you from having to splice wires. I've never had an alternator actually fail, usually it's just the regulator, it's a $40 part, as opposed to $200-$300 for a whole alternator.

"James Sweet" wrote in news:SB%bd.84$5l3.68@trnddc02:

Yes the insulation on the wire to the OPS is completely gone and the wire was destroyed from time. Now I need to find the small push clip and the metal connector to go in the OPS. The one I took out fell apart in my hand. (I wish I could show a picture of the part, Is that allowed here?) I have 14 gauge wire and my soldering gun, but I need a new clip to the OPS. the small metal clip won't reopen for me to connect the wire properly. Anyone have any Idea where I might find The Part to clip the wire in to the OPS?