Hi Joseph,
That advice re the 240 fuses is well worth considering. I've had no further corrosion problems with fuses since wire-brushing the fuse holders and replacing all the original ceramic fuses with *ceramic* types with
*brass\copper* ends. This permits copper to copper contact thus eliminating the galvanic action between the original dissimilar metals. (At least that's my theory...........) Also it still permits easy checking for blown fuses. Our local Volvo dealer doesn't stock them. I had to get them from a VW supply house, sad to say.
Finally a coating of dielectric grease on both the ends of the fuses and the fuseholder contacts completes the job, unless you also want to ensure better contact by judicious bending of the fuseholders.
Good Luck. Andy I. ('58 445 wagon; '65 122S wagon; '67 121; '74 142; '74 145 wagon; '86 245 wagon; '93 244 Classic wagon.)
: >
: >Unless it has already been converted, the car has the old R-12. Conversion : >is not terribly difficult though, might even work out to less than replacing : >the old O-rings and having it charged with expensive R-12. : >
: >First thing to do is wire brush the fuse holders and check the ends of the : >fuses for oxidation. That fuse box is one of the worst parts of the : >otherwise solid 240 design. : >
: I would agree with this response. For years I replaced all the fuses : on my 240s with GBC fuses of the proper amperage. These are glass : bodied and have good (chromed?) ends. They never exhibit the corrosion : factor of the OEM ceramic fuses. I recently had an occasion to find, : however, that it's not always obvious when they've blown. :