940 rear foglights

For my 940 '92 I have a wiring diagram (Volvo). According to it, there is basically nothing special between the instrument light and bulb in rear. No relay. Just a cable indicated GR (for grey).

The cable passes a big connector somewhere near the drivers's right knee. In that connector block the rear fog light is cable number 15. Grey coming in, gray going out. I assume the wiring is along the right hand side of the car in Britain. The picure shows the stuff along the left side, but that's probably only for strange insignificant countries where people have cars with th steering wheel on the left :-)

If you have a tow hith installed, I suggest you check the cabling to to it, perhaps the rear fog light was lead to the trailer and got lost?

The wiring runs along the left-hand side of the car irrespective of which side the steering wheel is on. As the foglights are not routed through the bulb malfunction device the wire can be scotchlocked directly onto the foglight wire behind the lamp housing. If using a 12N connector to the trailer you should use the version which has a cut-out incorporated for the fog light. This routes the car's rear foglights via a switch integral to the connector. The result being that when the trailer is plugged in the cars rear foglights will not come on but the trailer's rear fog light will. It is to save your vision to the rear being blocked by glare from the car's lights.

Cheers, Peter.

Eeewwwwwww. These pesky things have to be the worst way of splicing wires together ever invented. I have, in the past, spent many frustrating hours trying to figure out why some newly installed electrical component won't work, only to find it was due to these bleeding 'orrible things. They are pathetically unreliable.

Screw terminals ('chock blocks') if you must, or better still, invest in a crimper, or ideally, for a permanent connection, a soldering iron and some heatshrink sleaving.

how does the heatshrink sleavingwork? can i get some @ a radio shack?

Err.. yer heat it up and it shrinks. A match a few inches underneath, a hair drier - that sort of thing. Then shrinks to form a nice tight fitting insulating sleave.

Probably. I would think any elecrical accessory store could supply it. Comes in a variety of diameters.

Example here:

It's just tubing that shrinks when you heat it, a heat gun is ideal but a lighter will do the trick if you're careful. Radio Shack does sell it last I checked, but a hardware or hobby store is a better place to get it.

Just use a high powered hair dryer (at least 1 kiloWatt rating).

Cheers, Peter.

(Re-reads own post) I didn't mean to imply that heatshrink sleaving is a way of joining wires togehter; it just makes a neat job of a soldered connection.

When I make a wire repair, I slide a piece of heat shrink over the disconnected wires. Then I twist them together, with the overlap 1 cm at least, usually closer to 2 cm. Then solder, one piece of electrical tape to fill in the gap where there is no insulation, then another piece for a thin layer across the repair and beyond both ends. Then slide the heat shrink over the whole thing. The heat shrink makes it look neat and stops the tape from unwrapping as time dries out the glue. I learned early on the folly of half-a**ed wiring repairs. I keep multiple sizes (and colours!) "in stock" in my tool box.