Driving 3 hours with a crack in the radiator?

If you have time to let it cure you might try some of the dubious plastic radiator epoxy as a short term thing along with a loose pressure cap. A better answer would be to put a new or good used radiator in before the trip. You really don't want to overheat and cause more damage.

John

Try duct tape.

Can't hurt.

It only takes 10 minutes to replace a radiator, you the bulk of the cost is in the part. You could pick up a new Nissens 3 row metal tank radiator and install it yourself, all you need is a 10mm wrench and a screwdriver, oh and if it's an automatic you need another wrench too to do the cooling lines for the tranny. It's not a bad idea to replace the hoses too while you're at it.

As long as it doesnt run short of water and overheat, it'll be fine.

Tim..

That's 10 minutes (maybe) if you've done the job before, and are fast. For a first time job, average mechanic, figure the better part of an hour, if the clamps come off ok.. But it's still better than driving it spewing coolant.

"It only takes 10 minutes to replace a radiator"

more like 3 - 5 hrs on a 940......

takes 10 minutes to replace a radiator, you the bulk of the cost

What makes it so much harder on a 940 than a 740? One could just about do a transmission swap in 5 hours so long as they have all the correct tools.

If you can find a radiator where you are at I'd replace it. OR use an epoxy product that sets overnight and try driving home.

Don't do like my wife and run it dry. Plus use a Nissen radiator, don't go for a knockoff generic radiator. It simply isn't worth it. If it's an Auto then plan on about 1 1/2 hours. Very easy to do even for a novice.

If you run it dry plan on machining the head, flushing the engine. (about $800.00 in repairs) Believe me it's not worth it!

I believe many parts off of the front end need to come off...cowling, fan, etc...Although, I have not done one myself...So I should shut up @ this point..

...but, on my 1993 940t...it took a lot longer than 10min.. for a expierenced volvo mech to swap out the rad...that's for sure....

btw: i went on to have more cooling issues...evend. cooking the head and having it replaced.....BE CAREFUL OVER HEATING YOUR 940.....watch the temp guage and pull over if it gets high...EVEN IF IT GOES BACK TO NORMAL.... as the guage will do this, once the water is gone from around the sensor...it means yoyr guage is now giving you air temp, no water temp any more..as the coolant is gone from around the sensor....good luck...and keep us all posted...three hrs is a pretty long trip...take it easy and go slow...

a 740? One could just about

One to be wary of is, the tempature gauge is compensated and does not always reflect the exact temperature of the coolant. Done that way to prevent complaints about small fluctuations.

Joe D...

They way my mechanic explained to me was this..."once the water is no longer surrounding the sensor, the sensor will reflect the air temp, which is much lower than the coolant was"...so, that is why my temp guage 1st spiked ... for 3 - 5 (as the coolant started heating up) min of driving, then seemed to return to normal...even though I was really way

low on coolant........The guage does not reflect motor temp, just coolant or coolant cavaity (if empty) temp.....And yea, I agree there is a dampner factor built into the guage or sensor , so the guage is a bit more stable........My mechanic told me he has seen the 940t's get so hot and overheated...all the plastic pieces in the engine compartment were melted and totaled......and, if you l@@k at my 93 940t...there is a hell of a lot of plastic under the hood.....

of is, the tempature gauge is compensated and does not

I know this is late, but I haven't seen anyone suggest that you drive with your heater turned on. This really works and have used the technique several times while in those conditions. jimmy

You haven't seen it suggested because on a three hour drive it would be of minimal help. Using the heater core as an auxiliary radiator is really only effective when the radiator is plugged or overloaded, not spewing coolant.

You missed the point: when the heater goes out you better fill up again quick

i agree on this point...the other way i could tell my coolant was getting way low, is the heater would no longer put out heat...good point.....mine being a 1993 940t....

fill up again

My 1995 940 non-turbo's radiator cracked and I was hoping to replace it with a heavy duty full metal model like I did with my beloved (and totaled) '87 740 turbo.

Does such an animal exist? Is it worth it?

I don't trust some of the online sites that claim one size fits all 940s when IPD's catalog says that their heavy duty three row radiator for 940s fits up to '93 only. Plus I don't know a lot of these brands!

I live in the south East US. So it wouldn't hurt to have the extra cooling capacity. But, at this point I just need to get the car running properly!

Thanks for any help. The sooner the better.

don

In my experience the so called all metal heavy duty radiators are shorter lived than some of the aluminum and plastic ones. I suppose that an advantage of the metal type is that they are more easily repaired. Since you got almost 12 years out of the factory radiator you don't have a lot to be upset about IMO.

fcpgroton.com has several options for you and they are on the east coast. You might want to call and discuss the different ones with them: