E-Code wiring question

Sorry, follow up question: Does my 1987 Volvo 740 have a "ground-switched" headlamp circuit? I noticed a ground wire on each side coming from the harness. This grounds to a bracket mounted on the quarter panel - 1 per side.

Must I follow Dan Stern's instructions for this type grounding, or does it not apply? He states: "SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR GROUND-SWITCHED SYSTEMS

Many Japanese vehicles, as well as a few others, use a "ground-switched" headlamp circuit. In these circuits, the headlamp and beam selector switch break or complete the ground side of the headlamp circuit, rather than the feed side. On these systems, it's imperative to use both negative and positive existing headlamp wires to trigger the relays. It is tempting to run the existing headlamp feed wire to relay terminal 86 (trigger feed) and simply find a convenient ground for relay terminal 85 (trigger ground). However, this will not work with ground-switched systems. Run the vehicle's existing feed wire to terminal 86, and run the vehicle's existing ground wire to terminal85.

Now, what are we going to do now that we've used-up our one and only ground wire on the 85 terminal of the low beam relay, but we still have to install the high beam relay? Go to the other side of the car and you have another ground wire! Remember, the relay trigger circuits can be as long as you like, because they take insignificant power. So, you can extend the vehicle's existing headlamp wires to your relay mounting location. It is fine to use this method regardless of whether you have a ground-switched system or not, so go ahead and use it if you're not sure. "

You'll want to bridge the harnesses between the two sides, you can do this easily enough with some of those insulation piercing connectors under the fuse box right at the bulb failure sensor or you can run wires across under the hood, this will prevent the headlights from tripping that but retain functionality where you really need the failure warning, for the taillights.

Yes there's wires on each side just as you describe.

You don't need to fuse the headlight wires to the relays, they're already fused at the fuse box (I think?) actually it never hurts to have another fuse. *DO* fuse the wires straight off the battery before the relays though. I got some nice waterproof inline fuse holders at Schucks when I did mine.

Thanks james. I wasn't sure about that headlight failure light. Bridging sounds like a great idea. How did you ground yours? I see a grounding bracket on each side with 1 if not 2 wires being grounded.

I bridged mine under the hood, I mounted the relays back next to the power steering fluid resivoir and ran wires enclosed in flex tube. If I were to do it again, I'd bridge the sides at the lamp failure sensor.