Emissions advice for a Volvo 1988 740 GLE Non-Turbo!!

I have a 1988 Volvo 740 GLE. I am up for emission soon. The car mpg is very poor in city dirving something like 15-17MPG in city driving or sometimes worse. But on the highway, it does 20-23MPG.

I replaced O2 Sensor, Fuel pressure regulator, Cleaned the throttle body, changed Air filter, Flame Trap, Distributor rotor and cap. I have changed the car's AMM [from the JunkYard], the engine temperature sensor which sets on the engine block [again junkyard part], the ignition coil, the ignition wires, and the Fuel filter but all of this never did me any good. It seems to be just staying at this MPG. I think I have listed here all the parts that I have changed.

I checked at fueleconomy.gov and found the EPA estimated MPG for my car and it was 20 City and 25 or 26 Highway. Definitely, I am way under the estimated city numbers.

Also, my service light gets on when I start the car and stay on for 60 seconds or so and then goes off. Since I owned the car, I was never able to reset that light. Does anybody know for this particular car year and model how to reset the service light. Also, does this specific car have a check engine light or not?

I think I won't be able to do the test unless this light is off. They won't test the car, right? Does anyone have any idea or suggestion for me before going to emissions?

I will probably change the spark plugs and definitely the oil. I will also try to use some Fuel system cleaner in the gas tank. I was once advised to use the Ultra i.e 93 Unleaded fuel not regular 87 when going to emissions. Does that really matter.

I am in Maryland.

Thanks very much for reading the post and for giving me any suggestions.

--Hameed.

Reply to
Sharshera
Loading thread data ...

I think you have the situation well in hand. The oil change is a good idea (dirty oil is reputed to increase HC readings). The gasoline shouldn't matter, but use gas with ethanol if you have a choice. You can also check the flame trap and the oil/air separator (where the ventilation hose from the flame trap connects to the crankcase) for restriction.

The emission testers shouldn't care about the "service" light. Others here can tell you the low-down on resetting that. You don't have an ODBII system (that started in 1996, although some cars had compatible systems as early as

1994) so there may not be a "check engine" light. My '85 doesn't have one.

The only times my '85 has failed emissions were because of failing to hold pressure when they removed the gas cap and tested the tank. Both times it was because hoses were cracked where they attached to the tank. Those were accessible through a plate in the back of the station wagon (in the trunk if you have a sedan).

Mike

Reply to
Michael Pardee

Note that 740s don't have that ignition system, nor that problem.

A 1988 740 would not have a check engine light (they started on 1989 on non turbos 4 cylinder, and 1990 on turbos)

The service light is just a reminder to do oil changes, and on the 1988 is reset by pulling a lever on the back of the speedo head, similar to resetting the trip mileage.

Reply to
Mike F

So, I have to take the speedo console all out i.e. unscrew it as if I am change some of its lamps to reset that light.

Do you know if I get the car to a dealer to read its computer would that help in determining if there is any emission's problems. Can these problems be indicated by that service light?

Reply to
Sharshera

You can do it by reaching up from below, but I'd recommend pulling the cluster out the first time.

No, there's no built in diagnostics at all on your car.

Reply to
Mike F

Another couple of questions:

I heard that there is an AirBox thermostat that controls the temperature of the Air that gets to the AMM. But I don't find it in my AirBox anywhere. At the JunkYard though, I did see it in some cars. Is my car missing it and that is what is scrowing it up or the car doesn't come with it?

I found people talking about cleaning the fuel injectors at a shop/ dealer would help. Do you think this might help?

Also, some other talked about something called Cold Start valve. Where is that exactly and how can I know if it is faulty?

--Hameed.

Reply to
Sharshera

Your air mass meter should have 007 as the last 3 digits. This looks identical to the ...016 air mass except there's an adjustment screw for the idle mixture beside the electrical connector. There are rebuilds that replace the cover with the number on it, so what's on an air mass meter may be something else entirely.

In the air box should be 2 air intakes, and a flap that covers one or the other. The flap should cover the intake that connects to the hot air tube that goes to the intake manifold at ambient temps above 15 Celsius.

Reply to
Mike F

I have a 016 AMM. I got from the junkyard. Should I try to adjust the the mixture using the adjustment screw.

What is the best Spark Plugs for this Car year and model?

Thanks again very much Mike.

--Hameed.

Reply to
Sharshera

There's no adjustment screw on the 016, it's the wrong one for your car.

I always used Bosch WR7DC (copper) on all those engines.

Reply to
Mike F

Okay, then I am shopping for another one, I guess. I hope this adjusts the car's MPG.

Thanks a million again Mike. I really really appreciate it.

--Hameed.

Reply to
Sharshera

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.