Help Fuel Pump 240 93'

No, just sleeping...

Probably it's only the relais (german, is it the same word in english) responsible for switching that pump. They are prone to fail after some years. The difficulty is to locate that thing. In 740, 940 etc it's below the radio. Do you have a wire diagram over your 240?

Vitus

"Vitus Jensen" ha scritto nel messaggio Do you have a wire diagram over your 240?

No! I haven't. But I try to keep out the pump and to supply it with 12 Vdc. After that I can be sure that's the pump. I think that the problem is the pump because sometimes I hear noise like "zzzzzzzzz " from it when in the thank there is few petrol.

Thank you, Andrea.

Dont forget to listen for the pump located in the fuel tank. Listen down the fuel fill hose, no buzz means the tank pump is dead. It is quite common apparently, happened to me.

Josh

the fuel relay is possible as it the connection to the pump as is the fuse or fuses 4+6 on my sons 1990 7 on my old V6 (LEST WE FORGET)IF YOUR IN TANK PUMP IS PLAYING UP THE MAIN PUMP SUFFERS AND THE FUSE MELTS of causes poor contact .

on next hours or tomorrow morning (Central Europe Time) we will have an answer. I'm going to check the fuse, the in-tank pump, the out-tank pump and the fuses. By.....Andrea Italy

PS It's hard without drive my car......coming soon..I hope

Well!! At moment (20:25 CET) this is the situation:

6) To be sure I removed the main pum situated under the chassy...I gave tension and the main pump turns regularly.

Thank you to Vitus, John and Josh for your answers......and I hope that my experience will be interesting for others Volvo fans.

Andrea, Italy My car: Volvo 240 SuperPolar (estate) 1993 engine B200F catalyzed, green metalized with LPG plant (because in Italy the petrol is not cheap...1,32 ?/litre during this period)

You can try to repair the relay if you're good with a soldering iron. The back of the relay circuit board (after you remove the plastic cover... takes a bit of prying) has many solder joints. These joints fatigue and although you can't see the cracks, they're there. If you carefully touch each with a soldering iron and re flow the joint the relay will usually work again. I've repaired my overdrive relay and turn signal relay in this manner and both are still working.

"clay" wrote news:iJrxi.33863$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net...

The joints are good. I supply directly with 12V dc the solenoids by-passing the circuit board: one close and the other doesn't close the contact. So I think that the problem is only the solenoid. To be sure I'll check the joints and the lines in the circuit board with a ohm-meter.