Hood latch spring failure

The fuel pump and filter are both mounted in that bracket, that leak certainly needs to be fixed ASAP.

I'm sure you could find a suitable spring somewhere to replace it, but I would just go to a salvage yard and get one from another 240, there are millions of them out there and I've never seen that spring break so there should be plenty of good ones.

Yes, leaving a trail of gasoline is a bad idea on many fronts. I'm hoping my mechanic can take it in tomorrow.

Looking at the latch, that spring looks surprisingly non-robust. It appears to have just rusted away.

Thanks!

in the 70's & 80's there were junk yards. i often knew who had what vehicles so" presto replaco" i could find what was needed by whom. mais, l'est plus ca change le plus ca reste meme. we no longer have yards we have ip adresses. i know a "few" dismemblers but all their stock is on line.

you don't need the exact spring. @ first guess many other (read American) hoods opened the same way. on line there will be people who sell just spings. if you are smarter than the average bear, you will find one that works. i own an R which i race.... so Volvo, small package, Swede-air -- first class oh, & two points of attachment,

2x$millions. right now my hood doesn't pop. instead of springs, i use my wallet or a book, or a.....

the filter, pump, bracket arrangement was fairly comman @ that time. after 20yrs the connections become aged & fiddled/ refiddled w/. my lines are monel, "steam fitted" & inspected frequently. alot of vinyl ended up being used. 5 connections 20 cm -- Houston we may have a problem.

Depends on where you are I guess. There's at least half a dozen well stocked U-pull yards within an hour or so of me, about half of which have a good selection of Volvos and cheap prices. Seems to be a thriving business, the places are almost always packed, especially when the weather is nice.

They ought to be over full after the cash for clunkers debacle. My uncle is in the used car business (karnutz.com, voted the most irritating web site on the net) says the junkyards he uses were giving parts away to make room...

Today the leak was fixed, apparently two things were involved. The first was that the fuel filter hadn't been changed in about 100,000 miles. The second was corroded aluminum washers/gaskets where the fuel line attached to the fuel filter.

It was also discovered that the in-tank fuel pump has no output (e.g., it's not running). So that's on the list of things to do. A couple other things were noted included a control arm bushing needing replacement (which I knew already but had forgotten about) and an inner tie rod end starting to have some movement.

Jeez, these 20 years old cars... I'm delighted to have it back and running well, now on to fixing the newly discovered issues.

The pre-pump failure is very common, and will eventually lead to failure of the main pump. The rubber accordion hose to the pre-pump is almost certainly split as well.

Ah. That would be bad. OK, the to-do list:

Left control arm bushing (probably should just do all of them) Inner tie rod end(s) In-tank pump and associated bits Replace the plastic radiator with a metal one New plug and coil wires Replace the bracket by the coil, which is cracked Repair or replace the driver's seat. Replace the center console/rear seat ashtray assembly

I think that's about all the known stuff until the next timing belt change which is 20,000 miles off.

I'll trade you chores. I'm about to do motor mounts on my '83.

fwiw, I got seats at a pick a part (ecology center?) for $40.00 each. They were cloth instead of plastic. Dirty but cleaned up nice. Beats the heck out of sitting on springs and foam. Can't hardly do much fixing for that kind of money.

Cool! No, wait. Not. I'll keep mine, thanks. ;-)

On mine the lumbar support adjustment failed resulting in a rather bowl shaped seat back; I understand this is basically a glorified string on a winder. And I think one of the wires in the mesh of the seat failed, too. The odd thing in that the seat back leans unevenly, farther back on the right side than the left. I wonder if there is a cracked frame member. One of these days I'll pull it out of the car and get the upholstery off to have a look at it.

True. If I could find a good driver's seat for $40 I'd probably just swap that in. I vaguely recall "Road & Track" making up a hotrodded turbo 240 and putting Recaro seats in the thing; the idea was that a 240 was basically invisible to police so it was a stealth hot rod.

String on a winder. Yup, more or less. Repair kit available at dealer. Also, look in 700/900 FAQ, there is something in there about repairing a broken winder.

Nope, probably not anything cracked. I once had an '86 240 wagon with that exact symptom. Along with the broken lumbar support. Damn near ruined my back before I fixed it. I removed the seat from the car.

IF YOU HAVE AIRBAGS, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND LET THE CAR SIT 30 MINUTES. Otherwise, if you don't, and you hit the sensor under the seat, bang goes the airbag.

Next, I figured out how to separate the seat back from seat bottom, basically unbolt some stuff, pull out rod connecting left and right, separate back and bottom, or something similar. Unclip and unroll upholstery on back to expose lumbar mechanism. Fix. Replace upholstery. The reason the the back was tilted was that the 2 separate gear sections, left and right, became 'unsynchronized'. You need to figure out how to assemble everything so that it all moves at the same pitch. It might have been something like get both gearsets to the same extreme end position, (all the way back?) and then assemble...??? It's been so long (I now do only 940's and 740's), so I don't remember if it might have been in the Haynes book, or I found something online. It must have been somewhat intuitive, or I would have screwed it up. All I know is that I got it right, and my back loved it.

best of luck, /glenn

My lumbar support went boing one day as I went over a speed bump. That was long after I was sitting on springs and foam though.

My 'pick a part' seat has exactly the same issue.

Boneyards are full. Go get one.

I vaguely recall "Road & Track" making up a hotrodded

After looking at prices for foam, covers, etc. I figured I could buy a Recaro, or Corbeau, or Sparco, for less than fixing the stock one.

Motor mounts are pretty easy, last time I changed a set it took about 2 hours including jacking up and lowering the car. You'll want a decent floor jack and a block of wood to put under the oil pan to lift the motor.

Probably, I've seen several cracked seatback frames. Fortunately replacements are not too hard to find so far.

I hadn't thought of that until today, but as I am 6'4" and 220 lbs it wouldn't be a surprise.

Open the seatback and have a look, if you can't find a replacement, you can weld the frame, it's just steel. Let me know if you need tips for getting the seat apart or back together, I've done quite a few seat rebuilds.

The frame breaks or bends on that side as yopu tend to lean with pressure on the seat to reach kids or objects on the back seat .In Taxi cabs its common .

I've never pulled one apart and haven't looked at it closely. Are there photos somewhere to see the process?