Here in Arizona the tests are done under contract and are the same everywhere (in the two counties that do it.) The main test is done on dyno rollers, but if the car fails some tests the car is revved out of gear to "condition" it in an effort to get an in-tolerance reading.
Mike
I think it depends on the individual car. My last 240 wagon got unbelievable MPG -- something like 28-32 in the *city*. My latest 240 gets far, far few MPG (but I stll love it!).
What're the years and transmissions? If there's a substantial difference there may be something out of wack on the newer one, I'm assuming your driving style hasn't changed. I haven't noticed much difference between one
240 and another assuming same engine and tranny.i loved my 81 240,except for the lack of overdrive(automatic),but if you get an 82 you will get the aw71 auto.overdrive tranny,you really need that extra gear on the freeway.and you will still have the nice big metal bumpers. and it will be close to the age of being emisions exempt. mine was always a little tempermental on cold starts, but ran great otherwise.a couple of times when merging onto a freeway with it floored it caught a second gear scratch,a friend was with me,we just looked at each other and laughed. mark
The car that got the better MPG was a 1989. My current 240 wagon is a 1993. Both are automatic transmission.
Have you checked the timing? Fuel injectors clean? How's the cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs? Tire pressure? Shouldn't be much difference between the two cars.
Nobody seems to be mentioning the colapsing driver's seats. I had three late 80's 240s and the drivers seat failed miserably (and uncomfortably) in all three. I never had this problem with my 70's 260s and haven't had it (yet) with the 850s.
Ah, yes. IPD sells a repair kit, but it is still a hassle. I think all mid-80s Volvos had the problem
Mike
That's an easy problem to fix though, put the little screen that supports the foam back together and use a bit of duct tape to keep it from falling apart. Put the springs back on and it's solid. If the wire screen is cutting into the foam, a piece of lexan, fiberboard or even cardboard between the foam and the screen fixes this. The whole job including removing the seat and taking it inside to work on takes only about an hour, I've done it quite a few times and so far haven't had it fail again.
I just rebuilt the driver's seat in my 89 240, with the help of a good seat back pad from my 88 240, the dealer replaced it in 93,so it was still good (just retired it after 300,000 miles, due to rust) I added 1 inch foam padding, and put the seat heaters under the padding, was tired of sitting on the plastic grates,much more comfortable, 1/2 inch padding would have been better as far as getting the covers back on, had to wrestle with the hog rings,still have the knuckles to prove it. mark
as for the original post question, my 88 240 was the best car i ever owned,
300,000 miles on the original engine, auto.tranny, alternator, starter and waterpump.decided to retire it after i found major rust around the lower driver door hinge on the body,plus a couple of spots on the roof the size of a half dollar that finally went through. so i'm using it for parts for my "new" rust free 89 and i've needed a few parts as this one has been somewhat troublesome. mark
I just cut those rings off and use nylon zip ties to put the upholstery back on, it's a whole lot easier.
I've had problems with my 850 seat jamming and know of several other people with same issue.
alan newfoundland canada
93- 850 92-745 87-745
What does 'seat jamming' mean, and if it occurs how is it resolved?
I'd rather have the seat foam fail than the power driver's seat back develop a mind of it's own in our 960. mark
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