On my 1998 S70T5, I've gone through numerous problems lately. I've replaced my engine mount bushings and both left and right CV joints be/c of torn boots. Now, I'm looking to fix the humming sound I hear from the front passenger side.
After the person did the work on my driver's side CV joint, he mentioned a problem with my right side tie rods. I didn't mention it to him before, so I don't think he was just making it up to make extra money.
My humming sound sounds rotational. Would a tie rod replacement (inner and outer) be the culprit? I have read about wheel bearings or even an unbalanced wheel making sounds. I don't have the means to lift the car and look around, so any suggestions to what I should be looking for or listening for would be great.
I plan on letting a mechanic fix the problems, but I'd also like to buy the parts from FCP Groton beforehand to save money. So, any extra help about what I need would be great.
Check your front strut dampers. If one of these fail it can cause early failure of the tie rods. The humming sound may be related to replacement of the CV joints. You may want to take it to another shop for a second opinion.
If the CV joint was driven in a worn out condition for a long distance or at high speed, I wonder if that could cause the driveshaft bearing to wear out?
You don't need expensive lift equipment to test for a bad wheel bearing.
Simply drive 'till you hear the hum/groan.
Now, on a roadway without traffic, load the side you think the noise is coming from by turning the wheel slightly, kinda weaving the car. (do this on dry pavement).
The noise may not go away. Now load it in the opposite direction, noise goes away? It's the wheel bearing.
CVs are constant velocity, they only make noise when they are being roated on their axis (typically). They 'click', at low speeds because the balls are loose in their cage.
Take out your spare tire jack, jack up the offending bearing side, make certain the vehicle is secure. Grab the wheel top and bottom, and see if there is any play or any movement on this axis. Now turn the wheel by hand, fairly quickly. The bad bearing may be heard at this point.
For the tie rod end, place the car back on the ground. Have someone sit behind the wheel, look at the tie rod end and have your assistant gently turn the steering wheel in either direction, just slightly to load the tie rod end. If there is play before the entire assembly starts to move, the tie rod end is bad. You can park beside a curb and load the wheel with more force, there should be VERY minimal play whatsoever. You can also feel the play in the steering wheel.
I have a bad tie rod end, this is how I checked it, and luckily it is easy enough for me to replace. I will need an alignment after though.
Tie rod ends are a highly stressed component, and it is ALWAYS being loaded (unless you only drive straight). Have it replaced, and have it replaced with a good quality unit. Alignments are expensive, paying a few extra bucks for a part that lasts longer is a good idea, one without a grease fitting is a good option.
ALSO, most mechanics do not like having people bring them parts. They can't make any profit this way, and some will refuse the work. I certainly would. It would be like being an electrician and wiring someone's home, the home owner providing you with all the wire and outlets, where this is where your profit margin is and the entire reason for being in business. Do you bring your own steak to a restaurant??
Unless of course your mechanic doesn't mind, some don't. I do 98% of my own work, mechanics HATE that. The only thing I can't do is an alignment (well, a string alignment no problem), and I can't mount/balance tires anymore (sold my machine, I'm just a home mechanic/hobbyist! ;)
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