1998 K1500 4X4 Suburban

I have a jerking problem going down the road at any speed. Before that it was missing, I had the wire, plugs, dist cap, rotor and coil replaced. The miss was still there. The mechanic replaced the Fuel
meter body and that fixed the miss. Now it has a jerk at any speeds. Even on cruse control. It will just jerk and go on like nothing happen. This jerk feels like someone hit you from behind. This was not there before the miss. Any thoughts?
Thanks
Kelly Edington
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Fuel pressure check and scan for OBD2 codes ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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I have checked the OBD2 codes and it is not reporting any codes
"SnoMan" wrote
> wrote: > > >I have a jerking problem going down the road at any speed. > Before that > >it was missing, I had the wire, plugs, dist cap, rotor and > coil > >replaced. The miss was still there. The mechanic replaced the > Fuel > >meter body and that fixed the miss. Now it has a jerk at any > speeds. > >Even on cruse control. It will just jerk and go on like > nothing > >happen. This jerk feels like someone hit you from behind. > This was not > >there before the miss. Any thoughts? > > > Fuel pressure check and scan for OBD2 codes > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com
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If it were a consistent enough condition to cause the problems descripted by the OP wouldn't it cause enough trips of the affected ODB2 system to set the MIL? Correct me if I'm wrong, but, scanning for ODB2 errors if the MIL isn't illuminated may show temporary conditions at best; conditions which have not been repeated since the last ODB2 trip for that system and for a system in which 1 trip is not sufficient for illumintating the MIL. In other words, for what the OP describes; "going down the road at any speed...", if it was something ODB2 would have "seen" then it would have illuminated the MIL.
In case the problem may be poor grounding of the transmission's computer, you may want to run a ground wire from clean, bright, shiny metal on the transmission to clean, bright shiney metal on the engine or frame. If nothing else, it only costs the a few cents for the wire and a few minutes of work.
wrote:

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Cheers
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I also had a simular problem on a 1990 full size Bronco. Be going down the road, and all of a sudden, it felt like everything locked up for a split second. Turned out to be the rear diff was shot (limited slip). Had it rebuilt, and problem gone.
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