Stripped Spindle Thread Help

I have a 1979 Chev K10 with front wheel locking hubs.
The locknut and spindle thread (at the outer edge) has been partially stripped. The thread that is not damaged is still usable. I cannot
remove the inner adjusting not because of the stripped portion. I have tried to grind the stripped thread away (protecting the good thread by undoing the adjusting nut up to the stripped thread) using carbide grinding bits. All I have achieved is destroying the bits and polishing the stripped thread.
I cannot use a steel file because the access is limited.
How can I remove the stripped thread? I believe the spindle is forged steel. I have contemplated using a cold steel chisel, but do not want to attempt until I have more info on possible solutions. Hoping someone can help Regards Tony
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in your local hardware store they should sell small metal files. around 5"-6" long. sometimes they are 2 or 3 sided. what were you using the carbide grinding bits in? a die gringer prehaps....ya just can't beat a grinding stone.
your next choice is to heat the nut with a torch. but just the nut. as it expands the inside diameter will become bigger and may climb over the stripped thread.
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Tony wrote:

Why not use a cutoff wheel on the nut (if you have access) to remove and use a thread file to repair. Get some new nuts and you ought to be good to go.
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Lots of people here haven't had the pleasure of working on a 4 wheel drive with a solid axle in the front, you don't know how lucky you are lol.. The bearing adjust and lock nut are recessed about 2 inches inside rotor hub. The axle shaft extends about 3-4 inches past that and slides into the locking hub when its placed on the end of the rotor hub and bolts to the hub assembly. NAPA used to carry "split" thread dies for trucks. The die is two piece with an o-ring around the outsides in a groove, the pieces slipped over the thread and then a socket is placed over the halves. Un Threading the die repairs the thread on the axle spindle. While the bearing surface area is hardened the thread area is not. Problem is the tool is as expensive if not more than my next suggestion. The cheapest next method is to get a used rotor/hub assembly. The rotors/hub assembles are two piece on this set up, pressing the wheel studs in holds the two together If your rotor is better than the used one, take it to a machine shop and have them press the old studs out. Install new studs when mating the rotor and hub, and have them pressed in once you get the assembly off the truck. With used assembly in hand, you can cut the end of the hub off the old one, a pipe cutter works well, and then using a cut off wheel on a die grinder cut the bearing nuts in two. Once removed the threads can be repaired. If the threads are really bad. the spindle assembly on the axle can be replaced, its held on with 8 bolts. This should be removed when brake work is done to inspect and re-pack the inner spindle axle bearing and replace its seal. This is the only bearing that supports the outside end of the axle. It can only be gotten to by removing the spindle. In a cheat, NAPA makes a tool for greasing this bearing. It threads onto the spindle and has a grease fitting, use a grease gun, hand not air powered and pump it till clean grease comes out the back of the spindle. Too much pressure will blow the seal out of place, its not much more than an over sized rubber band, Also with the spindle housing off, you can check the u-joints on the front axle shafts. The axles on most front diffs will slide out at this point. One more thing, mark the spindle to axle housing, install as it came off. Sometimes there will be what appears to be a thin metal gasket between the two, make sure it goes on exactly as it came off, and no sealer, its a tapered shim, not a gasket, and not all will have it. Whitelightning
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Thanks for all the great feedback.
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Thanks for the great feedback.
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