Fan Clutch

Hello,
Replacing the fan clutch on my 1987 BMW 325. Anything special I should know before I get into it. I don't have to take the radiator out, correct? I know the threading is opposite as well. Do I really need a
special tool as well?
Thanks
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Put the spanner on the nut. Use one hand to push down hard on the fan belt and tension it, use the other to whack the spanner with a big hammer. Takes a few goes but it will work eventually. If the spanner has a rubber handle try to slide it off, it'll just cushion the blows otherwise.
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In the UK, the correct offset spanner is pretty cheap (about 10 gbp), and you can get one with the two common sizes (32 & 34mm?) which between them will fit most cars as well as BMW.
Easiest way is to hit the spanner end with a rubber mallet - a dead blow type is ideal - to shock it free. Might take a few goes.
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

*Thin* (that's very important) 32mm wrenches are commonly known as headset wrenches and can be found at any bikes shop for $10-15US. Here's a good example:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?catP&item=HCW%2D15
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Problem is the bike ones are usually too short to reach over the top of the fan so they can be whacked with the aforementioned mallet.
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

OK, then you'll need a Stein 32mm headset wrench, p/n HW-32, about 12 inches long and cost between $15-20:
http://www.jastein.com/Tools_for_Frames_Forks.htm
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That's about the same price as I'd pay for the proper double ended 32/34mm fan clutch spanner in the UK. Aren't they available in the US?
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Thanks for all the help! Not sure if the poster with the "nasty" messages at the end of his posts was meaning though . Are those directed at people here on the site, or are those just random? Cause they don't help much.
Thanks to everyone who answered with at least something helpful.
best
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

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I take it you're new to newsgroups? ;-)
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On my E36, the tool is only needed to hold the pulley in place. If you can hold the pulley by other means, then you will not need the tool. I used a screwdriver and held it against the center and one ofthe outside bolt heads to keep the pulley steady as I removed the mounting bolt.
The radiator is supposed to be removed, but again, if you can gain access by simply removing the shrouds, then you do not have to pull the radiator.

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Firstly.. it's reverse threaded!... You don't need to remove the radiator at all... just take off the fan shroud when you remove the fan.. best way.. it doesn't take much.. I just put my hand in.. Held onto the belt and on of the pullies to stop it moving.. then just a few taps and the bolt comes loose ... Then you can just spin the fan off... Pull it out with the shroud... Then take off the clutch from the blades.. replace the clutch.. make sure you have it the right way round.. then slide back on with the shroud.. (the fan needs to be in the shroud as it goes back.. you'll need tie wraps to put the shroud back).. Once in position.. just use a spanner to make sure the fan is on the thread.. and it's STRAIGHT.. on the thread.. then just spin it by hand till the nut tightens a bit.. there is NO NEED to do anything else.. no tightening.. nothing.. just leave it well alone..
This is exactly what I did with mine.. and it's been fine for 6 months :)
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First, it's a nut that holds the clutch onto the thread - not a bolt.
And after spinning it back on by hand you should give the spanner a tap with a mallet to tighten, because if you don't there's a very real chance of the whole lot spinning off when you stop the engine for the first time.
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote: <attaching radiator fan>

Hmm... isn't it a left-handed thread to prevent that, like bike pedals being attached with different threads each side?
Andrew
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Andrew Morton wrote:

Yes, left/non-drive side crankarm is left-handed thread on bicycle pedals. The right/drive side crankarm is standard righty thread.
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Yes - but if you just spin it on hand tight, start the engine and let it idle, then stop it the fan can spin off. Don't ask me how I know...;-)
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