Rust converters

Hi Jason, The product I use is called Dilac Plus, manufacturers name is Deosan. It's known to the merchants as Milk Stone Remover. The merchant I use has another similar product on the shelf which is a little more expensive - I bought the cheaper one to try first and it works beautifully. I dilute by approximately 1:1 with water for dipping small stuff like fasteners, leave them to soak for a few hours and check regularly. Dilute about 3:1 or 4:1 as chemical:water for dipping larger items like springs which can be left for

24 hours or more without problems. Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

Cheers Bill, Whilst searching for an answer I came across this which may be interesting - how's your chemistry?

interesting -

Hi Jason, My Chemistry is upto 'O' level only and now largely forgotten, but I am married to an ex-Castrol development chemist, so I have consultant available

24-7! I'm not a fan of rust "converters" per se. They will at best convert the outer layer of any thick rust and prevent any further rusting. I would hesitate to call the phosphoric acid based fluids converters. The phosphoric acid will continue to penetrate until the rust has all been removed. Rather than a layer of hard black converted product, you will have a thin grey phosphate coating over the remaining metal. The downside of this is the metal will be pitted where the rust has been removed rather than filled with a black crust. Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

I don't trust rust "convertors" either. I have tried two makes, Hammerite Kurust, which basically lets the metal start rusting again after a while, and Loctite rust convertor which is better, but as you mentioned they only convert an extremely thin top layer of rust, and even lightly scratching the surface with a screwdriver reveals the rust still underneath. I have been wonderering how to treat "niggly" rust, light rust in awkward places that cannot be sanded to bear metal. At the moment I give it two good coats of Davids zinc primer. Would you recommend the Clarke rust remover, it's qouted as being an "inhibited inorganic acid" for rust removal. Thanks Shane

Hi SHane, I've always like Jenolite liquid (not the jelly), but the milk stone remover referred to further up the thread works just as well if not better, and it's a fraction of the cost, Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

Hi Bill Thanks for the advice, I'll look out for Jenolite Liquid, or better still the milk stone remover. Thanks Shane

Bill, I emailed Oakes Brothers, my local agri merchants. They said they don't stock it but they have said I can get it at Agricentre in guess where? Calne! tel no. 01249 814700 @ £16.83 per 5 litres.I guess that's where yours came from.

Autoexpress have a test of rust converters on their website if you're interested.

At the Nat Classic Car Show in NEC last week I saw more than one stand carrying a product for cleaning carbs. that I hadn't seen at previous NECs. It's main claim to fame according to the publicity was that it contained "17% Phosphoric acid and Hydrochloric(?) acid" but didn't say if that was combined or separately. Anyone have knowledge of this product or better still experience of using Thanks TT

I've found ordinary carb cleaner - or cellulose thinners - to work well enough. Both will remove petrol 'varnish'.