What kind of options: head rests, 4spd/auto, leather, PW, PB, A/C, hard
top, speed warning speedo, factory-style side exhaust, tilt/tele
steering, bolt-on aluminum wheels?
What was the original engine? Take a look at where the redline of the
tachometer is. A car that was originally a 427 is going to have a higher
price than one that was a 327. Among the 427s, a 435er will have more
potential than a 390 hp. I can't recall the exact redline figures for
the different engine options - perhaps someone else will chime in.
Are there any body modifications like flared fenders? Does it have the
spare tire carrier and a spare?
Just some things to investigate further...
Here's waving to ya - \||||
'67BB & '72BB
-- not affiliated with JLA forum in any way -- alt.autos.corvette is
original posting --
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
Hard for anyone to tell you that, especially without seeing the car. My
ballpark guess is low 40's. 67 prices are crazy at the moment.
Original engine adds a lot to price, as do desireable options (like a/c
or big block or original knock-offs) or a strong paper trail of the
car's past history since new. Body modifications detract from price, as
do non-original colors or interior, or lack of a valid title. Try
looking at past (completed) sales on eBay to get an idea of prices (I
think you have to be registered with them in order to search completed
listings), and note that many of them never reach the seller's reserve
(high expectations). There is a lot of attempted/actual fraud on eBay
Corvette sales; I wouldn't ever consider buying a Corvette from eBay
without first seeing the car.
Be sure you've looked as closely UNDER the car as you have on top,
because serious frame rust or birdcage rust would cost a fortune to
correct. My advice would be not to buy at all without having a Corvette
expert (ie, someone like an NCRS judge) look at the car for you.
I was buying the car...but like TOM POINTED OUT IN ANOTHER POST people
are "sold" on matching numbers .. .
block #'s 4 bolt vs 2 bolt, and itemized list of what went into the
engine would change my opinion of the engine (and the car) by 1000's
===========> I normally do not drive in rain ..but a new top runs about 300 bucks + installation...no big deal
===========> Very important...I would want to know how the car"pulls" thru the Rpm range...and how tight it was (steering etc)....
Sorry but without really looking at the car and driving it nobody
can really tell you...
Friend sold his 67 at Carlisle in 2004 for 49K,
same car (4,000 miles later) sold for 59 at Carlisle in 2005...It
was a Nice car, not original engine, but the replacement engine
was a fast burn 350...and pulled like hell...!
Mid year prices are UP (as usual) ...& 67's are leading the way as
figure at least 40k....
ROFL. A friend runs a web site to help out with Corvette stuff. He ended
up charging because of questions just like this.
do with the car, the paint can make a big diffeerence.
advantage depending on what you plan to do with the car.
If you see a recurring theme, it is what do you plan to do with the car.
NCRS-type judging or restoration, Bloomington Gold competition and
restoration, fun weekend toy, investment, sports car and those events, drag
racing, autocrossing, car club show and shine shows, and more. Each have
their requirements and the car can either fit or not fit. Not fitting means
it can cost you $$ to make it fit.
Big thing, what are they asking?
All, thanks for taking time to respond to my email. The asking $ 45K. More
information on the car:
1) FRAME OFF RESTORATION
2) PAINTED ORIGINAL COLOR
3) NO HARD TOP
6) VINYL INTERIOR, NO HEAD REST
7) NO AC, P/W
8) 4 SPEED MANUAL
9) FACTORY SIDE EXHAUST
10) I BELIEVE THE ORIGINAL ENGINE WAS A 327, RED LINE ON TACH LOOKS LIKE 57
11) BODY MODIFICATION, IT HAS A BIG BLOCK HOOD
Tom in Missouri wrote:
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