86ish D150 225 goes 1/2 a block then dies, won`t restart until cold

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Once again Budd, you see only what you want to see. I gave her a description of what the tool was intended for so she could say it to the salesman if she wanted to buy one. I then went on to explain how to use
that tool to help her diagnose what failed on that cylinder. It had nothing to do with changing seals or springs but feel free to show me exactly where I said to do either one or is this just another one of your all too typical false accusations? BTW, why are you replying to me?
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"Budd Cochran" <mr-d150@preciscom SPAM.net> wrote in message
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restarted
thing
but
don't
will
from
That would require someone else cranking the engine and the risk of being shocked. Most timing lights have long enough wires to bring it into the cab with you and hold the trigger while cranking and if not, a simple rubber band will hold the trigger and you can lay it on the air cleaner where you can see the lens while cranking and no risk of shock.

but
idle),
compressor
But the test will confirm it and that is the whole purpose of doing this, to see where the air is leaking from.

to
I guess reading isn't your thing. If you look above, you will see some compression numbers. How do you think she got them, here is a hint, a COMPRESSION GUAGE. The test I suggested using the air chuck will help to determine where the air is going.
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If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving



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ROTFLMBO!!!!
Gee, Tom, haven't you the cerebral cellular matter to think of:
1) holdng it by the insulating boot
2) holding it with a pair of insulated handle pliers
3) using a remote starter button
4) shorting the solenoid relay with a screwdriver
5) having a friend or loved one crank the engine
?????
Not much of a mechanic are you after all. . . . .

If a wet cranking test shows no improvement, then the head needs to be pulled anyway, so why drag out all that paraphenalia just to have to put it all back up?

And intelligence / social interaction isn't your thing, among others, including reading.
IIRC, the truck is considerable distance from the compressor . . .so, why don't you buy her a few hundred yards of hose, a huge compressor to supply the pressure / volume at that distance and have it all shipped internationally to Canada . . .I'm sure she'll appreciate the gift. Alternatively, you could just send her a huge extension cord . . . . .
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Budd Cochran

John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9
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in
a
an
this
my
tip
find
being
you
But you still either need someone else and still risk being shocked. Do you really think the rubber handles on a conventional pair of pliers will hold back 20,000 volts. Does she already have a remote start button? Does she know how to hook it up? Is the insulation on that wire still good? IF she is too far away from the metal, it will arc back to her anyway. The timing light is the easiest way to do it and requires no help from anyone and none of your crap here says anything different. It appears that you are the one that just posts to argue.

And yet, far more than you seem to be sometimes.

distributor
new
so
1/2
a
help
this,
it
Why? Since she claimed this to be a throw away motor, if the problem is just a burned valve, who cares. Let it run that way until she gets rid of it. If the problem proves to be something else, she may not want to depend on it as it may completely fail and get her stuck.

access
the
and
to
And this from the one who uses the excuse of not being politically correct as a defense for treating others like crap.

You are kidding, right?!?!?! You hardly need a huge compressor to do this and if she intends to repair the vehicle then she will need to more it to an area where she has tools and light anyway.
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If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving



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Quit buying your tools out of the $1 bin at the drugstore, Tom.

No, Tom, that would only be you since you've posted your assaults directed toward me on a bunch of other replies and this is only the second reply to you in a month or better from me.

Really? I'm not the one giving useless advice to a novice mechanic.

Obviously, not you, that's for certain.

And you completely missed or ignored her post about not swapping engines now and the one about the location of the truck.

It's not an excuse, Tom, I'm not politically correct and you will always get from me what you dish out.

I see English is still not your forte' . . .but I have to assume you mean she needs to "move" the vehicle. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the truck stuck in deep snow mentioned in another post, so moving it would be difficult if not impossible right now.
Again, you ignore previously posted info and plunge forward with your crap expecting everything to be as you say it should be.
Go back to you assaults and insults, Tom. It's truly your calling in life.
--
Budd Cochran

John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9
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hold
I don't buy cheep tools Budd. At best, they will cause even more damage to what you are working on and at worst, they can seriously injure you while doing it. If you knew even half of what you claim to you would know that the rubber grips on most pliers were not put there with insulation from electricity in mind and are not good insulators at all.

Sorry Budd, but you really are standing on thin ice here. You are the one making most of the attacks lately, even if you try to hide behind replying to others posts.

Sure you are, like when you suggested she use a compression guage to determine what was leaking, especially after she already performed that test to get the readings. My advice simply allowed her to determine why #5 had such poor compression and there was nothing useless about it.

put
You are correct, I don't. Why should I if she doesn't. It's only a motor that she intended to dump anyway, not someones life or even only means of transportation.

now
Trucks can be towed if needed and unless she swaps that one out, she will have to rebuild it.

correct
get
Now that is just a lie. You are more times than not the one that dishes it out. You may call it politically incorrect, I just call it ignorant.

why
this
to
LOL, reduced to attacking me on typos huh! Is that all you got? If the truck is currently so stuck, what is the point of fixing it if it cannot get out of where it is anyway?

Do you mean like your rewrite of Ohms laws, Mr the voltage drop goes down as current increases.
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Really?? Then why are the vinyl rubber grips on my Craftman tools given a insulation rating BY THE MANUFACTURER, WESTERN FORGE AND BY CRAFTSMAN? Why have I been able to use those insulated tools in handling 110, 220, and 440 volt LIVE wires as a millwright? How come I can hold a plug wire on a capacitor discharge ignition BY THE BOOT OR THE WIRE INSULATION and check for spark?
What's the voltage rating for a single layer (3 mil) of vinyl electrical tape . . . go ahead, cheat and look on the package, I'd rather you get this one right for your own safety.
You do know that something like 1 to 2 percent of the world's population are hypersensitive to electrical shock and can't touch an ignition system at all when the engine is running, don't you?
Btw, I also have a very old pair of slip joint pliers that belonged to my step-dad with no insulation. The knurled grip handles don't slip as bad as the rubber handles when greasy.
Now, to make sure you understand that I do know the effects of ignition sparks, I test the point type ignition Briggs, Kohler, Tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. The resultant spark is only about 3000 volts, but if I get a spark at all the coil is good. Occasionally, I get bit by them.

ROTFLMBO!!!!!
It's really funny , Tom, that you and theguy complained I was always attacking so I quit. and now your doing it to me and to Max.

Your test, Tom, from talks with Rach via email, aren't practical for her to do and I tried to tell you that.I wasn't "correcting" or slamming you at all. But you took offense anyway, so you screwed up, Tom. You assumed inccorectly.
Now shove it where the sun don't shine.

Be honest, Tom, the only one you care about at all is yourself.

Did you see the post about digging out snow to pull an engine??? That was this truck, Tom.

stick and stones, Tom.

I was just making sure my powers to read your mind were working yet and I see I can still read greeting cards. Your English is atrocious, period, either accept that you will be corrected at times or take a remedial course.
Back to the topic, it was the same truck she wanted to pull the engine on . . get this thru your skull, and REPAIR before changing her mind.
--
Budd Cochran

John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9
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while
that
Perhaps because that was the intent of the rubber coating on that set of pliers. I did say most, not all.

and 440

Anyone who works on live wire unless it is absolutely necessary is an idiot, period and a millwright does not have to. I have to work in live boxes on occasion but not on live wires. While I also have linesman pliers that are insulation rated, most of my others are not, probably because the rubber is more porus to prevent them from becomming slippery when exposed to greese and oil which would also reduce their insulating ability by a considerable amount.

this
Did you wrap your handles in vinyl "electrical" tape and if not, what is your point? Since you really don't have a clue when it comes to electrical circuits as made clear by your voltage drop reduction when current increases statement (completely the opposite of fact), you really should just shut up here.

are
all
I didn't know the percentages but since I am one of them... Perhaps that is why I use other methods to check for spark.

That would be because the rubber on those handles were intended for insulation, not better grip like most others are.
-- blabber snipped --

IF
and
the
one
replying
Really, when did that happen. It sure didn't in this thread or the way you are treating the others in Caravan thread. Speaking of theguy, could you be any more twofaced. When he took the other side in the political discussions, he was your new best friend but the minute that crap ended, suddenly he was the enemy again. You make it clear where your true motivation lies.

had
to
Sorry Budd, but calling it useless information is nothing more than slamming and if you don't realise this, then you really are an idiot.

How immature.

doing
be
motor
of
You are entitled to your opinion but as usual with you, it is both childish and wrong.

engines
will
So what, I simply gave her a means to find out what was wrong with that cylinder. Whether it was practical for her to do it at this time is not the issue. Are you really this shallow Budd that you have to be jealous over something like this.

others,
always
Sorry Budd, but the way you are acting in this thread makes what I said a fact, not an insult.

.so,
.
it
mean
course.
Back to the lame insults again, huh Budd. While you may think of my English as atrocious, at least I understand what I read, unlike you and your new Budds Law, LOL! Between you and Maxi's perpetual motion machine, the two of you should be able to end all our dependency on oil of any kind. To bad you are both full of shit.
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ROTFLMBO!!!!!
Right, Tom, you know all the secrets of Craftsman, Western Forge, Rigid, Channelock, Proto, Snap-On, and so on. . . .
You really should do some research.

Ah, you were there, were you?
Shows how little you know of reality.

What makes a box "live" and the wires inside them not "live", Tom?

Aha . . .you bought non-rated tools deliberately so "most" tools are not rated. I see your reasoning now.

So you don't know, after all. It should be you shutting up if you're dumb enough to work with non-rated tools on any wire, live or not. A friend of mine was knocked off a press when a set-up man turned the juice back on after removing the safety tag. The next day we were issued padlocks.
(Btw, industry standard for 3 mil vinyl electrical tape is 15,000 volts / layer.)

Then don't assume everyone has to do it your way. You are the exception to the norm, not the norm.

Here again, you make assumptions based on your choisce of tools. None of my pliers, except ones for non electrical use, are un-rated, but that's because I worked with high voltages for ten years.

--fact reinserted--
Now, to make sure you understand that I do know the effects of ignition sparks, I test the point type ignition Briggs, Kohler, Tecumseh coils by holding the plug lead close to ground and briefly connecting a 1.5 volt flashlight battery across the primary wires. The resultant spark is only about 3000 volts, but if I get a spark at all the coil is good. Occasionally, I get bit by them.
I put this in, Tom, not just for you, but for anyone reading the post. If the plug lead is held, in some safe manner, with a gap of 3/16" or less, it is a good way to test a lawn mower coil.

ah, your infamous selective memory again.

Oh??? In which reply to you in the caravan thred have I attacked you?

To agree with someone does not make them a friend. I have agreed with you several times, but you do not wish to be a friend so you will not be considered one at all.

Sorry, Tom, but useless information is useless information, a point you have claimed about information I gave in the past. My intent was to inform you as to the situation rach was in, but since the situation matters not to you, you made the info I gave you as useless as yours was for her.
There was no slam intended towards you, but you'll never see it or accept it.

How so? Does the sun shine in your basement? inside the trees outside your house? inside a can of peaches? if you assumed I meant aywhere else then it is you that is immature.

Not from what we see of you here.

True. I agree with this and did so all along.

Wrong, Tom. It is the issue. What good is advice that cannot be implemented even if it is the best advice? Advice that is usable is much more productive for all.

What is there to jealous of? You gave good advice but not for the situation. I tried to explain the situation and you get mad.

In your biased opinion.

I thought it to be imaginative, myself, and only a tease, but I forgot you take everything as an insult even when someone agrees with you.

Too bad that like Matt and Bill you think you education places you in a higher class of society than everyone else. That you are too good to be told that your advice is inappropriate for the situation.
I'm done with you, go play.
--
Budd Cochran

John 3:16-17, Ephesians 2:8-9
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Nope, and neither do you.

PKB there Budd, PKB.

check
Nope, and I didn't have to be and the fact that you didn't come up with one of your fantastic stories shows you have no valid reason either, that is if you did it at all.

No, it demonstraites you ignorance and stupidity. But please, prove me wrong and show me exactly why you needed to do it.

You are kidding, right????? But just in case your not, if there is voltage being applied to the buss bars, the box is hot but until the wires are actually connected to an activated breaker or directly to the buss, they are not. When you pull new lines to the box they are not connected to anything and by definition, are not live.

greese
considerable
No, I bought tools designed for their purpose and many of my pliers have rubber covers on their handles and are clearly labled that their grips are not designed for electrical protection but then again, they don't get slippery when they get dirty either. My linesman pliers OTOH, have smooth grips and do get slippery when exposed to greese or wire lube.

electrical
I have pliers and cutters that are rated for electrical use but I don't normally use them on my vehicles. I bet your friend would have been knocked on his ass anyway because he was probably touching things with his bare hands which is expected when the power is shut down. He should have used a padlock anyway and the one who removed the tag should have been fired.

And the point is?
>

population
at
that
It is better to assume on the side of safety rather than get someone hurt. And you say that I don't care about anyone but myself.

my
my
because
You have done a lot of jobs and they all seem to be between 5 and 10 years. You must be well over 100 by now.

Big deal, your bite is still a minimum of 1/5th the zap she could get from that automotive ignition and that would only be 1 spark compared to 6 or more at 10 times the voltage her truck could zap her with.

it
And you accuse me of giving useless information. At least mine was on topic.

the
And your typical spin while offering absolutely no proof to back your accusation at all.

Where did I say you did it to me but you sure did with the other two.

Really, name 3 times. You did call him "friend" back then but the soon as he stopped attacking me.... It seems that the only ones you call friend are the ones that agree with you.

have
as
Funny, when did you get the job of determining what information is of use to whom? And even if that were true, who made it your job to inform me or anyone else? IF I kept hammering that point after being told that she couldn't do it then maybe, but that is not what happened. And then you give information about testing a small engine coil, LOL, talk about useless.

Because if no slam was intended, what was the point of saying anything at all. Face it Budd, a slam was what it was, simple as that.

it
Your spin is getting weak Budd. It doesn't matter where you meant when you said shove it, the fact that you said it at all was what was immature and you know where you meant as you have said the same to me many times.

Now that is a lie. You actually made complaints about needing a compressor and suggested using a compression guage which WAS completely useless information and incorrect as well.

implemented
productive
Because eventually, she is going to have to move the truck by some means and when she does, then she can perform the test if she actually wants to diagnose it further.

situation.
The point Budd is that it is not your job to to explain the situation since you are not the OP. Unless of course, you are running for the position of net nannie.

a
How is it a biased opinion?

I
Why is it that you can say anything you want and it is only a tease but if anyone does it to you, it is an unforgivable personal attack.

I think no such thing Budd and when do you ever even hear me talk about it. There are plenty of people both smarter and with better educations than I have and plenty who are not as smart and have less. The difference between us is I don't attack those that have less or think myself superior to those who have more and you do both although more of the latter.

Yea, sure. I have heard that one before. You may be done now because you don't have a valid argument and I hope so for your sake.
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the
bit
restarted
Do
see
but
don't
idle),
compressor to

to
head.
ive always used the hose from my compression tester for that. you just have to remove the shrader valve. my compression tester has a fitting that my air hose will plug right onto, works great.
--
-Chris

> i love you guys!
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First, using compressed air to hold the valves in place is a risky affair. Use a length of cheap clothesline inserted in the plug hole and run the piston up against it to hold the valves closed. Safer and easier than hoping the air prssure doesn't bleed past the rings too fast.....
WHICH IT WILL DO given the compression reading.
But I have to ask, how the hell are new stem seals going to help compression? Why are you even suggesting somehting like that regarding a low cylinder pressure reading?

Sure it can, but it won't tell you if its a normal rate unless you have a leak down tester.

Um, NO. If its an exhaust valve, what you've suggested is a good way to burn the valve and the seat, causing more damage. If its an intake valve, what you've suggested can result in backfire through the intake, which has no good effects at all.

A bent connecting rod in a slant six is >almost< impossible, and certainly would be accompanied with other noise if it did occur.

Not on a slant six.

Fully agree, 1700 is way too high for idle speed.
--
Max

"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
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Or that you don't have it exactly at TDC, in which case the air blows the piston back down... usually right after you remove the keeper :)
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If at first you don't succeed, you're not cut out for skydiving

affair.
LOL, if the rocker arms were removed, who cares. The pressure will still not drop enough to let the valves fall but then again, nobody is suggesting replacing springs or seals anyway. The tool is only being used to determine what, if anything, is leaking.
--
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compressor
to
head.
hoping
Are you really this desperate Max. Who the hell is telling her to replace either seals or springs. I was explainig the purpose of the tool so in case she wants to get one, she can tell the salesman what it is used for since I don't remember its name.

That is the whole idea, to find out where the pressure is going.

low
I am doing no such thing, moron. It is a TEST TO SEE WHERE THE AIR IS GOING IF ANYWHERE AT ALL. Perhaps you should read the whole thing before making a complete ass out of yourself.

LOL, it will show you where you are leaking from. I guess your engine diagnostic ability runs right up there with your electrical knowledge.

#5
you
burn
Hahahahaha, you really are a retard. How is pushing 100lbs of air into a non-running engine going to cause either one of these conditions? You do know that when it is on its compression stroke both valves will be closed, right????

and
the
damaged
WRONG!!!! It can happen, I have seen it and it caused NO NOISE AT ALL and I never said it was the most likely cause of the problem, only that it could and is far more likely than your bad battery in the other thread.

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Its a leakdown tester, something you would know if you..... well if you knew. But you don't.

Perhaps you should find out what tool you are talking about before makign a complete ass of yourself.

Yeah, which would put it far higher than either one of yours.

YOU claim the following:

My point is, she CANNOT "get by with that for a while" without risking serious damage to the cylinder head. Try reading before you make an ass of yourself.

No noise at all, despite having a 4.125" stroke that would have the rod slapping the piston skirt? No noise at all, despite cocking the piston in the bore causing either a very bad case of skirt slap or a huge amount of friction in the bore?
Yeah, ok... sure. We'll chalk this one up to your overall credibility.
--
Max

"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
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replace
since
Once again Max, you got it wrong. It is called an Air Hold Fitting and a set costs around $6. A leakdown tester is more in the price range between $60 and $300 and would do no more for her. A leakdown tester can show you when something is just starting to fail as well as help you determine what is failing but this cylinder already has failed so here it would be a huge waste of money when a $6 dollar tool can help her find out what failed just as easily at 1/10 or less the cost. Now who is the one that doesn't know.

making
a
I must say Max, you do make me laugh when it is you are once again the one doing just that.

a
Sure battery boy, whatever you say. I guess that goes along with your cold air from a compressor burning valve seats.

exhaust,
while.
what
no
a
do
closed,
exhaust,
while.
That is correct. It will help determine if a valve and which one (if not both) have failed and the cold air cannot cause a non running engine to backfire or burn an exhaust valve.

That is not what you said so perhaps you should write more clearly. The point is that since the cylinder is already down to 50lbs, the damage has already been done and she has made the claim that the engine is a throwaway anyway so who cares about additional damage and with only 50lbs of compression, I doubt it will get much worse now anyway. Once again, you accuse me of doing what you are doing right now.

and
could
Hahahaha, now that would depend on where it bent and how much, wouldn't it.

Once again, that alligator mouth overruns your hummingbird ass.

The sad thing here Max is that between this and the Caravan thread you are rapidly losing any possible credibility you thought you had but don't let that worry you since you don't really have any anyway.
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Why spend so much time (let alone $6) on dragging an air hose out to the engine if its already failed? You defeat your own argument here.

Yeah, you made thta observation before, and I wasn't taking issue with that. Maybe its that reading problem you have?

Yup, and it wouldn't take much, because its not going to bend "just a little bit" once its started. On a stroke that long its going to club that rod to death, making all sorts of noise in the process.

Once again you've got no facts to back up you inane claims, just stupid colloquailisms that mean nothing and are irrelevant.
Sadly, its getting easier to drive you to that point.
--
Max

"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
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a
between
you
what
huge
know.
LOL, is that all you got? I guess its better than admitting to error.

not
that.
It is probably more in line with your writing ability.

little
Care to back that one up?

Once again, you make claims that you can in no way back up.

of
You are the one making claims here and have yet to back up a single one. I know you and Budd like to accuse the other one of doing what you are to try and throw the other readers off as to who is screwing up but you do it so often that it really doesn't work anymore.
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TBone wrote:

<snip> That's OK -- when I explained what I wanted, he knew right away. I almost always get help from the manager -- he is best at reading my mind :-)
My late hubby always ordered his parts for the company he worked for for 18 years -- the biggest used parts place in Gatineau (several acres and multimillion) -- he was very honest and well liked -- they all take care of me like family -- his company and his contacts. I am very lucky.
...and since I have to ask for parts in English, when I can tell him what it's for, he knows what I mean <chuckle> If I knew the name of the part, it probably wouldn't help either <grn> Rach
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