Freeze Plugs or Core Plugs

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I have a 2000 Dodge Durango with a 5.2L Magnum engine. At 42,000 miles, on March 29, 2005, it started leaking anti-freeze coolant. The dealer indicated that 3 of the 10 freeze (core) plug were leaking due to
corrosion. Then, at 64,000 miles, on August 24, 2006, it happened again but this time only 2 of the 10 freeze (core) plug were leaking due to corrosion. Is this a defect?
I am having a hard time understanding how could this leak so easily and so quickly. Is this a design problem with the SUV Truck? Thanks for your responses.
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In article

Sounds more like a lack of maintenance.
The 5.2 has been around since 1967, if this were a design problem, it would be well known.
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On Sat, 02 Sep 2006 05:12:18 GMT, aarcuda69062

I agree too that it is a maintainance issue. When you get freeze plugs leaking, it is usually a sign of improper antifreeze mixture that is letting corrosion take place. When a few leak the others are not far behind. There is a few thing you can do to mitagate it thought in future. Run more than 50/50 antifreeze for one because 50/50 is not enough somethime for good protection (I alway use at leat 60/40 and usually 70/30). I have a 52 year old tractor that I run about 80/20 or more in because I do not want to have to worry about corrosion in it as parts are rare. I have not changed the coolant since I got is over 20 years ago when I put 80/20 of better in it fresh and it is still clean as day I did it and tractor sees about about 30 to 50 hrs of usage a year even today. It never over heat on the even the hottest days bush hogging (I do though) When I top it off once a year I always use pure antifreeze too There will be those that aurgue the higher antifreeze levels are not best but this is simply no true and it will cool fine and protect even better. Antifreeze is densor and has a higher abilty to abosurb heat to. It does take less energy to boil gycol and convert it to steam than water and hence where the some say water cools better but in a liquid state is takes more energy to raise a gallon of glycol one degree than it does water and therefore more "energy" to cool it since it stores more heat. You could also use a lower pressure cap to lessen strin on plugs and minimize leaks when they occur. I have been using 7 to 9 PSI caps for over 20 years and I never have any heating issue even when traveling through the great plains in 100 degree plus heat with 70/30 mixtures as higher levels of gycol also raises boil point too negating the need for higher prssure for boil over prtection. In theory if you ran pure antifreeze you would not even need a pressure cap as it boils around 340 degrees though in a pure state is freezee around 10. (ethylene glycol which is coomon anti freeze) As a foot note if you use propylene glycol (non toxic anti freeze as marketed) it has it highest boil point and lowest freeze point in its pure state with no water added and is used is severe artic cooling requirements. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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I have been following this thread (and many others!) and can no longer remain silent while such wholesale BS is propagated through this newsgroup. I would caution the OP to dismiss the Snomans reply in its entirety since it is absolute hogwash!

It is highly likely that it is indeed a maintenance issue, but NOT due to the incorrect antifreeze mixture. The factory recommended 50-50 mixture is the IDEAL ratio and should be adhered to in spite of anecdotal "evidence" posted below. More than likely, the freeze plug failure is due to corrosion from infrequent cooling system service. Your owner's manual recommends an initial antifreeze change at 3 years or 45,000 miles and every two years or 24,000 miles thereafter. Antifreeze does two things... keeps the engine from freezing in winter and also contains corrosion inhibitors and silicates to promote internal engine health. Over time, the antifreeze properties remain relatively constant but the anti-corrosion compounds break down and are no longer effective which leads to cooling syetm failure thus the need for periodic coolant service.
Now, onto the BS.
When a few leak the others are not far

Unless you live in the extreme north, NEVER run more than a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and water. A 50-50 mixture of coolant will give you ALL the corrosion inhibitors you need to keep your cooling system at peak efficiency if it is maintained properly. A 50-50 mixture will provide freeze protection down to -34 degrees F which is adequate for most of the US and Canada. If your climate requires, you can go to a MAXIMUM of 70-30 antifreeze and water, but this is rarely needed and offers NO benefit other than additional freeze protection.
(I alway use at leat 60/40 and

This is sheer idiocy. Why would you abuse your equipment when using the proper coolant ratio and periodic changes are so easy? Just because it has worked for you means that you are lucky, it doesn't mean that you are correct. You cannot determine through visual inspection the amount or effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors remaining in the coolant. A hydrometer will only show freeze protection.
There will be those that aurgue the higher

This is simply not true in spite of your belief that it is.
Antifreeze is densor and has a

This is pure BS! Therrmodyamics 101. The ability of a material to conduct heat is called thermal conductivity. It is usually expressed as W/m K. The thermal conductivity of water is .67 and the thermal conductivity of ethylene glycol (antifreeze) is .25, thus water is significantly better at transferring heat.
The ability of a material to "store" heat is called its specific heat. It is usually expressed as kJ/kgK. The specific heat of water is 4.184 and the specific heat of ethylene glycol is 2.38, thus again, water is much better at storing heat than antifreeze.
Only one other liquid comes to mind that is better as a coolant than plain water and that is mercury.
You could also use a

At last, a correct statement, but this approach is a band-aid at best.
I have been using 7 to 9 PSI caps for over 20 years and I

You have not had a problem because of your cleverness, you have just relied on dumb luck
In theory if you ran pure antifreeze you

However, you run a significant risk in engine overheating because the pure ethylene glycol cannot carry the heat away from the engine fast enough, nor can proper heat transfer occur through the radiator due to the physical properties mentioned above. This is simply bad advice!

The bottom line is this. Do NOT take what Snoman says as gospel. I have seen on too many occasions that his advice is flat-out wrong. I don't know where he gets his information, but it is NOT from knowledgeable professionals. I have remained silent up to this point, but I can no longer sit quietly while such mis-information is spread in this group.
Snoman, your participation in this group is welcome however, please take the time to verify that the info your provide is correct and is based upon sound engineering principles and recognized industry practices. To do less does the readers of your posts a great disservice.
I hope this clairifies the information in this post.
Mike DaimlerChrysler Serviec Manager Member Society of Automotive Engineers
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Mike Simmons wrote: [big snip]

Mike's signature says it all. Notwithstanding *good* shadetree mechanics (I use the term with affection), one does not become a service manager and a member of ASE without knowledge. Kudos to Mike, Tom (and many others) who offer their decades of experience and wealth of knowledge! Bryan
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Mike, I wholeheartedly second your post. You saved me a bunch of typing. <G> I don't know where ole Snowy comes up with this stuff, to somebody that doesn't know better it sounds good but it just misses the mark.
Denny
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Mike Simmons wrote:

I am very appreciative of all your time and responses, but the logic about the maintenance does not make sense.
As stated above, it was not 2 years yet between the two leak occurrences (March 2005 to August 2006 = 17 months).
It also has not been 24,000 miles yet between the 2 leak occurrences (42,000 miles and 64,000 miles = 22,000 miles).
Even if I brought the SUV in to the dealer earlier to replace the coolant, the corrosion already took place prior to the maintenance cycles. Both leak problems occurred before each of the recommended maintenance cycles. If I had the opportunity, I would have brought the truck in for maintenance, but it leaked first prior to both maintenance cycles.
I can give you guys more background on this if needed. I am interested in keeping my Durango a long time so I am looking for a long term solution.
Thanks JS
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Mike Simmons wrote:

Mike
I have a Chrysler 2001 LHS with 11,000 miles on it. It is driven perhaps once week. So should I replace the coolant yet?
Bob AZ
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Yes! The corrosion inhibitors wear out as a function of mileage AND time.
Mike

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wrote:

THis is the problem stero types. Detriot uses 50/50 still because over millions of vechicle you save tens of millions of dollars a year for profit. THere was a time that detriot said 40/60 was best too. The problem is aggrevated by the mixed metal contect in engine blocks that increase galvanic reactivity and water is very reactive too. The less of it the better. THe BS is is where people blindly folow detriot that wants you to by another car in 3 or 5 years or take it in for servicing. The last thing they want to do is build one that really lasts and reduces demand for their products. I keep some vehicle a very long time and I could send you pictures of overflow tanks and radiator that are as clean as they day they were built 17 or more years ago from using 70/30 but you would say that they were doctored or that I used a new or cleaned ones so knock yourself out. Also by your BS people living in northen states are screwd because 50/50 will not cut it and even 60/40 will not either in a few areas and I for one have lived once where 40 below and colder was common in winter and 50/50 whould hae been worthless. You want to was your money you can but do not dismiss something as BS because you do not understand the physics behind it. Detriot loves lambs to can be easily lead to slaughter. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Cuisinart Grind & Brew 10 Cup CoffeemakerOn Sun, 03 Sep 2006 15:20:12

sigh. another expert. lol. what a moron.
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On Sun, 03 Sep 2006 16:35:07 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@whatever.net wrote:

I have electrical and mechanical engineering background yours is likey pure BS. I would expect a answer like yours from someone that is really clueless on how and why things work. What you do not understand you dismiss as BS and attack the source of it.. Knock yourself out if this is the only way you can get your fix.. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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wrote:

What school/university did you attend??? What degree do you have??? The answer to this and the v-10 timing concern will shut a bunch of us up. Of course, no answer to either one will result in that pure BS you're talking about..
Denny
I would expect a answer like yours from someone that is

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wrote:

Notice that Hole did not say he had a degree in anything only a background. I'm sure we all could testify to the fact that Hole has a degree in BS.
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Hole, what Detriot really loves is fools like you who post wrong info and cause folks to damage their cars or truck.
Now answer the question's!! Start with the V10 thread!
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Again Detriot loves these lambs. You know they spend a lot of time and writing the owners manual at a low enough comprehension level for you guys to read and take as the bible. If you would REALLY read you might learn something. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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wrote:

Hole, I do want to learn something. Why don't you answer the questions in the V-10 thread?
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I have lived in northern MN, and ND for all my 47 years and a 50/50 mix works fine. In fact even less will get you by, but the coolant may turn to slush on the coldest days. And believe me, I have seen -40 more than once! Greg
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are dealing with Hole here.
Roy
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50/59?? What the hell is that! ;-) Greg
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