Ok, screw all this sloppy spider gear BS that I've been going thru - I want to get a posi unit. (can't hardly drive the car in the rain with the wheel slip anyhow). Few questions...
1) Which one? Eaton or Auburn? (and which model)2) Do these things require a C-clip eliminator? if not (desirable), do they come with new clips?
3) How hard is it to install/shim ? (I do have an install kit w/ shims etc)4) And other advice, and where to buy ?
Thanks
might want to look into the powertrax posi. you dont hafta pull the carrier. just replace the spider gears and pin with ones in kit. c-clips are reused.
use a for 9" rear-end their much better
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He didn't mention he was building a killer?
He just wanted to stop the clunking!
Refinish King
Why ruin a good car with lackluster parts? If I wanted a Ford, I would have bought one (and been towing it the whole way home...lol).
A properly built GM differential is just as good in most applications as a Ford unit.
Keep your vehicle all GM. There's a good reason why they are still #1. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
they are way tougher have more parts available. with a 9" if by some remote chance you screw something up everything can be changed very easily.
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Ahh, NUTS!. This is perfect! However, I went and ordered a Auburn Posi, and its on its way. God damn it, I just can't win. This would of been perfect! I really didn't want to pull the carrier and f*ck with all them shims and shit. Dag nabit. So how much are these things? more, or less than the Auburn's ? And what should I expect with the Auburn? Is the Auburn for normal city driving?, or am I gonn get a bunch of clicking, grabbing, locking, etc , etc ,?
"for" ? You mean "Ford" ?? And how exactally would I get that Ford rear to fit in my Camaro with all the special flanges, torgue rod brackets and shit that is on a 3rd gen Camaro rear ? I mean, I'm a pretty good welder and all, just wondering where I'd get all the brackets/flanges to weld on to this Ford diff. hehe..
Hey, how about some pics of this baby?
I think the After-Market bolt in 12 bolt rear ends are the way to go. Especially for a street driven F-body. Charles
There are companies that make bolt in 9 inch ford rear ends for F-bodies. Im not really that impressed with ford 9 inch rear ends. Unless every single part in them is aftermarket, with aftermarket axle tubes and center section. Charles
Really? Well, this is a 3rd gen, so wonder how that would fair with those torque rail mounting bolts on the top of the rear.
Ah, I see. However, what would this really buy me at this point? Remember, this is an
1988 'maro w/ a 305, so until I get to where I'm ready to put in a 350, or 383 stroker, the stock rear shouldn't be a problem, right? (and like I said, I "do" have this Aubrun unit on its way). Oh, which reminds me, anyone know if there will be enough clearance to be able to pull the carrier out with the rear in the car? - I seem to recall thats its pretty close bedind the pumpkin (gas tank, support rail?)if you check the local performance shops they can find 9" rear ends with all the work already done. they get sold at swap meets. and in the local bargain finders.
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You did well getting the Auburn. It is not hard to install. Just make sure to torque the ring gear and side caps (don't mix the caps left to right) and just make sure to get the backlash and side bearing preload correct. The Eaton unit is also very good.
I don't have direct experience with the power trax but I've heard they are VERY noisey.
Undisputed and agreed with 100%!
I like the part of towing home the F.O.R.D. after buying it!
LOFL! You made my night!
Thanks for the giggles!
Refinish King
But he's not talking about:
Running 10x31" slicks, with a 550HP at 475FT/LBS of torque motor?
He just wanted to get the clunk out, if it were a drag car, I would agree, or a Dana 70, maybe even an 80. but he wants to fix his differential and drive without the clunks, squeaks and handling difficulties of an adapted 9" in an everyday driver Camaro.
So please don't take this as a flame, because I agree in a performance venue, a 9" is great, fast to make gear changes at the track, Dana doesn't offer that. and is stronger than a Dana 60. But, he's talking about putting in an Auburn, how can he go wrong on an every day driver?
Respectfully submitted,
Refinish King
How about it Joe?
I had a 79 with a 403 olds and a Turbo 400, what a monster with a posi. Plus, it went through snow like a 4X4.
I miss that car, damn divorces ruin everything!
I also had a 67 in my youth, that had the 6cyl, with the rubber timing belt, when the cam seized in the head. BBC injection and tens all day at Englishtown.
LOL
Refinish King
The Auburn is a reliable and forgiving unit:
Unless you ordered a balls to the wall unit. I've installed a bunch of Auburns, Richmond's and Richmond's. The Auburn that comes apart at the side is my favorite, no clutches, conical gear friction and was in most Z/28 and dare I say it on this news group? mustangs.
Use a decent synthetic oil, you won't have to change pinion depth if you don't change gear sets, and you'll find the width on the unit is son amazingly close to stock, little or no shimming change will be required, just be patient when you check your backlash, and check it at the ring gear side for accuracy. (I hope you have access to a dial indicator?)
You'll need a lot of patience if you need to reshim, but don't give up or get angry. Because the feeling you get when you drive it, and the smile you'll get of knowing you did it. Will make you feel like the king of the road!
If I can be of any assistance, please don't hesitate to ask!
Refinish King
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