88 Camaro - which aftermarket posi ?

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Ok, screw all this sloppy spider gear BS that I've been going thru - I want to get a posi unit. (can't hardly drive the car in the rain with the wheel slip
anyhow). Few questions...
1) Which one? Eaton or Auburn? (and which model)
2) Do these things require a C-clip eliminator? if not (desirable), do they come with new clips?
3) How hard is it to install/shim ? (I do have an install kit w/ shims etc)
4) And other advice, and where to buy ?
Thanks
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might want to look into the powertrax posi. you dont hafta pull the carrier. just replace the spider gears and pin with ones in kit. c-clips are reused. http://www.powertrax.com/noslip.html
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Ahh, NUTS!. This is perfect! However, I went and ordered a Auburn Posi, and its on its way. God damn it, I just can't win. This would of been perfect! I really didn't want to pull the carrier and fuck with all them shims and shit. Dag nabit. So how much are these things? more, or less than the Auburn's ? And what should I expect with the Auburn? Is the Auburn for normal city driving?, or am I gonn get a bunch of clicking, grabbing, locking, etc , etc ,?

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The Auburn is a reliable and forgiving unit:
Unless you ordered a balls to the wall unit. I've installed a bunch of Auburns, Richmond's and Richmond's. The Auburn that comes apart at the side is my favorite, no clutches, conical gear friction and was in most Z/28 and dare I say it on this news group? mustangs.
Use a decent synthetic oil, you won't have to change pinion depth if you don't change gear sets, and you'll find the width on the unit is son amazingly close to stock, little or no shimming change will be required, just be patient when you check your backlash, and check it at the ring gear side for accuracy. (I hope you have access to a dial indicator?)
You'll need a lot of patience if you need to reshim, but don't give up or get angry. Because the feeling you get when you drive it, and the smile you'll get of knowing you did it. Will make you feel like the king of the road!
If I can be of any assistance, please don't hesitate to ask!
Refinish King

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You will NOT need a case spreader with the 7.5. The shims tap in easy enough with a drift, punch, or even a small hammer.
I haven't looked in that section of the GM service manual in a while but I think the case spreader is only used on the 9.5 gear and larger. Most techs work on those without the spreader.
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But most techs don't put in aftermarket differentials:
Especially ones that disassemble at the side, which require a preload to help keep the stress off of the differential case assembly bolts.
Respectfully submitted,
Refinish King

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You're right - it was a walk in the park actually. And its a 7.625 actually (with a 26-spline).

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I've done auto boxes but never a diff/posi so I would be interested to hear about how it goes. Any chance of some pics while you do the job ??
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Yeah!
Some pics of the local ho tooting you while you're installing the posi unit would be a laugh too!
LOL
Refinish King

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If you stretch the case .008:
It will go back .008, believe me! It might want to go back more. So just make sure to try to stay away from going more than .010, which might tend to crack the case.
I've spread them up to .014 for race applications, but these were track only cars, and the people were not objectionable to taking a chance, and you don't need that much preload on a street car. (you'd fry bearings weekly)
Have you ever done a Doug Nash, or a Hemi box, maybe a Ford top Loader? Then you'd be beating on things much scarier with performance gear sets!
Good luck!
Refinish King

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use a for 9" rear-end their much better
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He didn't mention he was building a killer?
He just wanted to stop the clunking!
Refinish King

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Why ruin a good car with lackluster parts? If I wanted a Ford, I would have bought one (and been towing it the whole way home...lol).
A properly built GM differential is just as good in most applications as a Ford unit.
Keep your vehicle all GM. There's a good reason why they are still #1. Joe--ASE Certified Parts Specialist & 10th Ann.Club Tech Director '80 Carousel Red Turbo T/A, 26k orig. '79 "Y89" 400/4 speed 10th Ann. T/A, 57k orig '84 Olds 88 Royale Bgm 2 dr, 307 "Rocket" (lol), 141k and still going.... '80 T/A project car...
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they are way tougher have more parts available. with a 9" if by some remote chance you screw something up everything can be changed very easily.
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But he's not talking about:
Running 10x31" slicks, with a 550HP at 475FT/LBS of torque motor?
He just wanted to get the clunk out, if it were a drag car, I would agree, or a Dana 70, maybe even an 80. but he wants to fix his differential and drive without the clunks, squeaks and handling difficulties of an adapted 9" in an everyday driver Camaro.
So please don't take this as a flame, because I agree in a performance venue, a 9" is great, fast to make gear changes at the track, Dana doesn't offer that. and is stronger than a Dana 60. But, he's talking about putting in an Auburn, how can he go wrong on an every day driver?
Respectfully submitted,
Refinish King

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thanks for the no disrespect.
I guess it would come down to cost. what did you pay for your unit mr. wizzard?
when I was driving my 81 as a daily driver I still preferred the 9" simply because of the strength and ease things could be changed. if it made noise you can pull the pumpkin and bring the full set of gears onto a work bench and adjust it then put it back in. you could even keep an extra pumpkin on hand. one with racing gears and one with highway gears for those long trips.
but seeing how little he drives it .....cost is the factor.
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