IAC resistance

99 Windstar 3.8L 76k miles
4-14-4 in the Haynes basically says... measure resistance from either terminal to the IAC body, there's should be 10k ohms or greater...
when I do this nothing happens at all, I tried both terminals and putting the other prong all over the IAC, am I doing something wrong? is it possible for the IAC to be that messed up?
I'm doing this on the terminals on the IAC side not on the plug that connects to it with the engine and key off.
The vans problem is sometimes it will either stall immediately upon start or start and the fast idle wont kick in, it just idles at about 400 rpm and has a tendency to stall when put into drive, it does not do this continuously, seems to be random.
One other thing I noticed one of the spark plug wires wearing thin where it rubs against the IAC, anything wrong with putting some electrical tape on the back of the IAC so the wires don't rub against bare metal?
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throttle bore and IAC. If that doesnt work your best bet is replacing the IAC.
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all the other tests where good, I guess I'll pull it and clean it, last time I pulled one was on my 90 Taurus, it was pretty nasty in there.

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Petebert opined in

Just to clarify the issue... that test is to find IAC motor shorts to ground.. No reading on Ohms scale means there is no short... infinite resistance, that lazy eight on your scale means infinity, is GOOD. However, that test with a multimeter is NOT definitive in all cases... Coil is a good example....sometimes there's a short at voltage.. jumping, so to speak.
Ummm how about moving the wires so they dont rub ANYTHING?
Go to scrapyard and get a replacement motor.
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Im not sure where I could move them to, theres stuff everywhere!

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Petebert wrote:

I drove my T-Bird eight years with original plug wiring. I replaced them with NAPA wiring and had problems within eight months. It was 95% my fault because of my nonchalant wire routing. The misfire DTC was an easy fix, but I surmounted a considerable learning curve troubleshooting the collateral damage. One cylinder cross-firing to another damaged an injector (yeah, I know that can't happen, but it did). I've read on this newsgroup that my vintage T-Bird is fussy about the wiring and its routing. I subsequently bought OEM (ouch!) plug wiring and extra separators. I made certain that plug wires do not contact each other or metal anywhere on their routing. I probably used a dozen separators.
The lesson for me, on any vehicle, is to take the extra time and effort when routing plug wires.
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