On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 07:43:25 -0600, Andrew Rossmann
It does not matter in my opinion how long it will take to cause
problems. It may cause problems, no matter how you reason it and will
a customer accept this on a new car. It causes a problem with me that
although the parts were painted the rust is showing and in fact has
taken off the paint. I am looking at the quality of work as well, as
it states on the window sticker: Quality is job #1
I would assume this is for all the parts of the car. Others are also
telling me not to worry too much and maybe I am a picky customer.
Maybe I am too picky, that is why I like to read the opinion of other
people (and I do appreciate the comments).
Surface rust is inevitable on all exposed iron. Unless the rust is
constantly fed by exposure to water and chemicals you have nothing to worry
about. The rust will form an oxidized barrier several thousands of an inch
thick and will stop further attacks. (the rust browning treatment was used
on gun barrels for centuries as a protection from rust) Your engine heads
and block are very thick. For rust to wear into them to any appreciable
depth would take several decades. Now if the motor were in marine service
and exposed to salt water (moisture and chemicals remember?) then you would
have reason to worry. If your state uses salt or some other chloride to
de-ice the roads each winter, it would be prudent to rinse the engine and
the under side of the car including the wheel wells every time you get the
chance. If rust does developed, it will be the freeze plugs that go first as
they are made of stamped sheet metal.
As you note, alloy engines don't rust. So, if you were purchasing alloy
motored cars in the past you might be shocked by what you see under the hood
of an iron motored car. If you see paint blistering on sheet metal, get
worked up. If you see rust eating into the fire wall or wheel wells, get
worked up. If you see rust in the door sills or around the cowl get worked
up. But a rust covered iron block is nothing to worry about. Shoot, I
recently restored a 41 Dodge Power Wagon that spent the last 45 years in a
Missouri field buried up to the top of the frame rails. The sheet metal was
shot and the frame and block heavily coated with rust but when we
sandblasted them they came out unscathed. I've seen this same scenario on
several of the 6 cars and trucks I've restored. They were all pitted to be
sure but nothing serious. IMHO, I wouldn't loose any sleep over surface rust
on an engine block.
I am sure a layer of rust (maybe 1/1000 inch thick) would form when the cars
are on the car carrier, sitting on the lot, etc. The only way you are going
to avoid this is to paint the engine (or use aluminum). This is nothing to
worry about. within a month or so, a layer crude (engine oil, road dirt,
etc.) will form on the engine and prevent further rust.
An amazing amount of repartee for a non-issue.
Surface rust does no harm.. especially on cast iron, it is when that turns to
a rust scale that there's a problem.
Cast Iron resists scale formation as you can see on almost any old manifold.
The REAL culprit is in certain steel alloys...I havent seen or heard of a
domestic exhaust pipe -manifold to cat- rusting out for years..
To the contrary was my kid's 5 year old renault (Eagle) which manifold to cat
essentially crumbled under the assault of midwest road salt.
Look under the hood of any brand vehicle with CAST IRON
parts and you will find surface rust. Look under the hood of
any old car with CAST IRON parts and you will see those parts are
still there, still rusted. Not too worry
those parts will be around longer than you ;)
"Aldert E. van der Laan" wrote:
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