Re: My First Muscle Car - Questions Already - Please Help!!!

Here is a short getting started jump start..... Then it's time for you to grab the ball and run with it..... : )

For parts, from weather stripp>Insurance - can anyone recommend a decent insurance company that won't

rape me??? State Farm wants me to pay something like $400 every 6 >months!!! I mainly want to use the car for shows and the occasional >evening or weekend drive. It's not a daily driver, etc. I checked >Grundy ($200 a year), but their paperwork that they sent me seems >pretty clear that they only cover cars going to shows, etc. Is there >any flex to their policies? How difficult are companies like Grundy to >work with in case of problems (vandalism, accident, etc)?>

There are several classic car insurance companies which have been around for decades, so not apt to disappear in the middle of the night. Here are just a few:

*Hagerty
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Condon & Skelly
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Aon Collector Car Ins (
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American Collectors Insurance
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J. C. Taylor Antique Auto Ins
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  • one of the oldest Go to
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    and scan their home page, and I believe you will find links to more.

Several offer (read the fine print of course)-

  1. Agreed Value. You can put K into a restoration and somebody like Allstate will only pay you blue book. With agreed value, that's what they will pay if you car is totaled or stolen.
  2. Unlimited miles. No restrictions about having to be going to/from a car show, etc. There will be specifications like your car must be secured in a garage when not on the road kind of thing.
  3. 1. Agreed Value. You can put $20K into a restoration and somebody like Allstate will only pay you blue book. With agreed value, that's what they will pay if you car is totaled or stolen. 2. Unlimited miles. No restrictions about having to be going to/from a car show, etc. There will be specifications like your car must be secured in a garage when not on the road kind of thing. 3. $0 deductible on already low rates. 4. Inflation guard. the price of parts, etc, goes up, so it costs more to repair, or the value of the car increased with time due to such things as collector interest, you are covered. Your car gets stolen, it's gonna cost more to get a replacement, the replacement cost is what they pay. 5. Parts coverage up to $X (ie $500). Somebody steals the original emblems off the car, and if you can find originals, they will pay up to x dollars. Beyond that you have to pay the difference. deductible on already low rates.
  4. Inflation guard. the price of parts, etc, goes up, so it costs more to repair, or the value of the car increased with time due to such things as collector interest, you are covered. Your car gets stolen, it's gonna cost more to get a replacement, the replacement cost is what they pay.
  5. Parts coverage up to $X (ie 0). Somebody steals the original emblems off the car, and if you can find originals, they will pay up to x dollars. Beyond that you have to pay the difference.
>Trunk Floor - this is the one I'm nervous about. Weatherstripping had >some wear and tear near the front right corner of the trunk (new stuff >is on the way from dearborn), and I think over the last year or two >it's created some leaks and surface rust inside the trunk floor. It >doesn't look horrible (I can get pics if necessary), but what are my >options? I realize that if it's bad I'll have to get the trunk floor >replaced, but can I fix this myself if the rust is just superficial >(perhaps angle grinder with wire brush & a repaint)? If so, can >someone please give me some detailed advice on this? OR, if I have to >take it to a shop, how much can I expect to spend? This is not a >showcar - just a street runner. I just want leaks and rust to go >away...

First, clean as best you can all rust. Then immediately cover the area with one of several excellent commercial products you can find in most auto parts supply places. One good example is POR-15. Have to read and follow the instructions closely. Essentially, it will put a halt to further rust advance. Of course, if it's really bad, you know where that is headed. Either new floor panel if available, or cutting out the rot and welding in new metal, or finding a donor car from which you cut what you need and weld in.

>That's all (for now) - I'm sure I'll have some more for you in future. >I'll work on getting pictures up too. > >Thanks, > >Jason

Hey! Spikey Likes IT!

1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8" w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
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