wrote:
>On 1/21/2011 12:55 PM, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 11:51:45 -0800, "F.H."
>>>> On 1/17/2011 5:25 PM, F.H. wrote:
>>>>> On 1/17/2011 4:52 PM, Sheldon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 1/17/2011 11:35 AM, lugnut wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 10:30:55 -0800, "F.H."
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Getting set for smog test so paranoia lurks. Current set of Motorcraft
>>>>>>>>> Platinum finewire AGSF32FM have only 15K on them and don't look too
>>>>>>>>> bad.
>>>>>>>>> Is there a plug that is better or one that might enhance emission test
>>>>>>>>> readings.
>>>>>>>>> Perhaps a test only set? Engine in good shape for 190K (has always
>>>>>>>>> passed) but burns about a quart of Motorcraft 10/30 synthetic blend
>>>>>>>>> every 1100 miles or so.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> TIA for any input.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I would not worry about the plugs at that mileage unless
>>>>>>>> there is a misfire.
>>>>>>>> The only thing you may want to do is clean the MAF with a
>>>>>>>> good residue free aerosol electrical cleaner. Make sure the
>>>>>>>> air filter is not choked with a ton of visible crap.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The oil consumption on the 4.6L V8 is as often as not is
>>>>>>>> valve seal leakage with nothing to do with pistons, rings or
>>>>>>>> cylinders. 1qt/1100 miles is not excessive. IIRC, Ford
>>>>>>>> still specifies 1qt/750 miles or more as excessive on most
>>>>>>>> of their rngines. Keep in mind that a qt of oil every 1k
>>>>>>>> miles is something like 1 drop every 800 feet - really
>>>>>>>> miniscule. Most engines that appear to have zero
>>>>>>>> consumption are simply replacing consumed oil with
>>>>>>>> combustion byproducts (blowby).
>>>>>>>> Your best bet is to continue using the lighter 10w30 oil.
>>>>>>>> The 4.6L seems to not circulate the higher viscosity oil
>>>>>>>> well resulting in noisy timing chains and valves until fully
>>>>>>>> warm. Ford now recommends a 5w20 for pretty much all of
>>>>>>>> it's vehicles. I have stayed with 5w or 10w30 in all of
>>>>>>>> mine since they predate Ford's 5w20 recommendations. I have
>>>>>>>> a couple north of 1/4 mil miles with no oiling problems
>>>>>>>> other than valve seal replacement. The worst one on oil
>>>>>>>> consumption at 1qt/600 miles is very close to the low end of
>>>>>>>> the emissions requirements - about as clean as it was new.
>>>>>>>> The cats are not affected as much by oil consumption as they
>>>>>>>> were in the early years since oils have been reformulated to
>>>>>>>> remove components that are adverse to the cats longevity.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The best thing for the test is a fresh oil change followed
>>>>>>>> by a nice drive a normal temperatures just before plugin'
>>>>>>>> her in for the sniffer test. If it then fails, you can
>>>>>>>> examine the test results for clues to the guilty system or
>>>>>>>> components. There may also be stored fault codes. You may
>>>>>>>> want to visit one of the parts stores to besure there are no
>>>>>>>> stored codes. Here in GA, a stored fault code is an
>>>>>>>> automatic failure even if there is no light. They don't
>>>>>>>> take the time to determine the code is or is not related to
>>>>>>>> the emissions portion of the system.
>>>>>>> Thanks much. Is it possible to replace the valve seals without removing
>>>>>>> the heads?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mechanics have ways of doing lots of things, but you absolutely have
>>>>>> to do a
>>>>>> leak down test or something similar to determine where and what the
>>>>>> problem
>>>>>> is before you do any work. IMHO I still don't think you have a serious
>>>>>> problem. Before you start freaking out do the simple things first, air
>>>>>> filter, warm up the car and blow out the crap, and see how it does on the
>>>>>> emissions test. Some mechanics can test emissions before you actually do
>>>>>> the test.
>>>>> Thanks. I've cleaned the MAF (do that regularly) and the air filter is
>>>>> new. Should make it to smog tomorrow or Wednesday. I'll post the results.
>>>>
>>>> Passed easily: (thanks again for the tips)
>>>> HC actual = 6/3 allowed = 49/33
>>>> CO actual = 28/25 allowed = 47/44
>>>> NO actual = 214/229 allowed = 409/696
>>>
>>> Your NO is a bit higher than I would have expected. It can
>>> usually be corrected easily by cleaning the EGR ports on the
>>> 4.6L V8. You may want to do that before your next test if
>>> you get a little slack time.
>>>
>>> Lugnut
>> Cleaning the EGR MIGHT help, but it is just as likely to be a weak
>> cat. (or a 195F thermostat installed)
>Thanks, I'll file these suggestions. Wait...., could you elaborate on
>the thermostat please. I replaced it when I upgraded the intake and its
>whatever over the counter temp range they sell at Auto Zone.
NOX goes up with combustion chamber and intake charge temperature -
and combustion chamber and intake charge temperatures go up if a
hotter thermostat is installed. You may getter better fuel mileage
with a hotter 'stat, but it is possible to cause a vehicle to fail NOX
by simply installing too hot a thermostat.
Yours is not nearly close enough to the limit to be put over by the
thermostat, but it is possible dropping the operating temp MAY lower
your NOX a measurable amount.
When vehicles are on the dyno for E-Test in warm weather, if the
operator fails to run the big cooling fans, a perfectly calibrated car
can fail dismally on NOX - and pass 10 minutes later after the fans
are turned on and pointed at the front of the car.
Now with pictures!
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