Hello, I've been trying to find out if a 2001 Ford Ranger (V6, 4WD, Manual Transmission) can be towed "4 wheels down" behind an RV. I've seen that some other years are safe as long as it stays under 55mph and both the tranny and transfer case in neutral... I haven't found anything specific for the 2001 and I'd like to see if anyone here has done this themselves or has a copy of the official 2001 Ford Towing Guide with this information. I'm hoping that it can be safely towed simply with a tow bar; if not I may have to use a car dolly and a driveline disconnect. If anyone has any info on either 4 wheel down towing or some good options for drive line disconnect kits, or any other helpful information for that matter; I would GREATLY appreciate it. Thank you in advance.
I believe that's an error. The trans should be in 1st or R (or P, if an automatic), and the tcase should be in N.
The reason is, as the tires roll down the highway, the drive train spins the tcase, which then spins the output shaft of the trans. If the trans is in a gear, the output shaft will be held in place. I spun the transmission of my Jeep all apart one day when I failed to check the positon of the levers and handles. I had the transmission in N, and stopped to check my load after about 50 miles. The syncros in the trans were cooked.
I haven't found
Depending on how far you are pulling your Ranger, you might want to disconnect the drive shaft while you flat-tow. If you are going camping, and want the truck for trips to the market, then this is not a very workable solution, but if you are going coast to coast and do not plan on driving the truck, you would be better off, even if flat-towing, to disconnect the rear drive shaft.
While flat towing, be sure to leave the ignition in OFF but not LOCK
Personally, I'd leave the transmission in Park... The tail shaft bearings in the transmission do not have lubrication when being towed, and any spinning from the transfer case will cause them to fail.
But you have a manual transmission, so it should be OK in neutral.
Best would be to disconnect both drive shafts. Then nothing unnecessary is spinning. At least with the Fords in that generation that I've worked on (OK, not that many...) it is not difficult to drop the U-joints at the diffs, bag 'em, and tie-wrap the drive shaft up out of the way.
The same principles hold true. You do not want the transmission tailshaft to spin while towing. Leave the automatic in P, put the manual in 1st or R, select N in the transfer case.
OK, I'll accept that, but probably not in R, use 1st... That way your backup lights won't accidently come on if the key is moved to ignition.
Anyway, I think we all agree that dropping the drive shafts is the best way.
Then I had a brain fart. I know you can drop the front shaft on an Explorer and still drive it. I wonder if one could do the same in the Ranger, put it on a dolly backwards and have a drivable vehicle (with no 4x4)?
I tried towing a truck backwards on a dolly one time. if there's any play in the steering it'll turn into a fun experience. 2 miles down the road I pulled over and turned it around.
I think you want the steering tires on the dolly. As Old Crow points out, if there is any slop in the steering gear or suspension, you'll be chasing your load down the road.
If the front axle has a disconnect built into the axle (hubs that you manually turn, or a vacuum system to lock the hubs automatically) to physically lock the tires to the axles and the rest of the drive train, then you do not need to disconnect the front drive shaft to flat tow. Indeed, there is a school of thought that says if you have manual hubs (the type you have to lock by turning a dial on the hubs), then yoiu might want to go ahead and lock the hubs while flat towing. The reasoning is, while under way the front tires will turn the driveshaft, which turns the t-case output shaft, which turns gears inside the t-case, which sling oil onto the output shaft bearing for the rear drive shaft. The front shaft is below the oil level, so it is immersed in oil, but the rear drive shaft is above the oil level, so you want a means of getting oil up to the bearings of the tailshaft. Typically, yoiu have to stop for gas every 250 miles or so, and they suggest (require) you to run the engine with the transmission engaged and the t-case in N. The purpose is to spin the t-case for a while and throw oil onto the tailshaft bearings. If you flat tow while the front hubs are locked (with a vacuum system, this is difficult to do, but a manual system is easy), then the front driveshaft will turn the gears and throw oil onto the tailshaft bearings as you drive.
Sometimes, you can have systemic problems with the front suspension that are magnified while flat towing, and having the front hubs locked can present problems while towing. But, if you don't have any problems towing, the front hubs being locked will help lubricate the rear tailshaft of the t-case.
I think it is just an issue of convience, like going to a shopping center without driving the RV, but wintout getting all dirty putting the drive shaft back on.
You said you have a manual tranny, do you have manual locking hubs in front (anything but those horrible Ford Automatic Locking Hubs)? If you intend to tow this vehicle much of the time you might consider fitting manual locking hubs to the rear axles also. I have read about this being done on Jeeps. This way all four wheels are disconnected from the axles while you are towing it. Result is that nothing in the power train turns. Just a thought.... DaveD
I have seen a cable operated disconnect for the rear driveshaft of a 2wd pickup. Had a unit that resembled a synkro out of a manual trans that was fitted to the driveshaft, and a mechanism that moved the collar back anf forth with a cable. Ah, here it is:
Never been in -any- owners manual I've ever seen, ok, except for Saturn (which were designed to be towed, which is why they were popular with RV owners)
4x2 and 4x4 vehicles equipped with manual transmissions Before you have your vehicle towed: ² Release the parking brake. ² Move the gearshift to N (Neutral). ² Turn the key in the ignition to the OFF/UNLOCKED position. ² The maximum recommended speed is 88 km/h (55 mph). ² The maximum recommended distance is unlimited. In addition, it is recommended that you follow the instructions provided by the after market manufacturer of the towing apparatus if one has been installed.
4x2 and 4x4 vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions
4x2 vehicles with automatic transmissions or 4x4 vehicles with manual transfer cases and automatic transmissions, follow these guidelines for recreational towing: ² Release the parking brake. ² Turn the key in the ignition to the OFF/UNLOCKED position. ² Place the transmission in N (Neutral). ² Do not exceed a distance of 80 km (50 miles). ² Do not exceed 56 km/h (35 mph) vehicle speed. If a distance of 80 km (50 miles) or a speed of 56 km/h (35 mph) must be exceeded, you must disconnect the driveshaft. Ford recommends the driveshaft be removed/installed only by a qualified technician. See your local dealer for driveshaft removal/installation. Improper removal/installation of the driveshaft can cause transmission fluid loss, damage to the driveshaft and internal transmission components.
No that starts on page 183 under roadside emergencies.
This is under the driving section under recreational towing.
The section just in front of what I posted before, on page 156.
Recreational towing Follow these guidelines if you have a need for recreational towing. An example of recreational towing would be towing your vehicle behind a motorhome. These guidelines are designed to ensure that your transmission is not damaged.
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