97' Cavalier/Sunfire rear turn signal burns out every three days

That's some serious over-current you're seeing there Rob. Are you certain you're using the correct bulbs?

RE: 97 Cavalier/Sunfire rear turn signal burns out every three days.

I have cleaned the lamp socket with electrical cleaner and checked all the fuses. The base of the blub gets melted every time I change it (using a new bulb of the correct type).

Should I replace the socket? Any other ideas on a fix?

Thanks

Rob _________________________________________________

What bulb are you using? Does it melt when you insert it or later when you turn it on? Does it melt when using the running light filament? Does it melt when using the stop/turn signal filament? Did the original bulb melt before you changed the bulb? Did the original bulb burn out before you changed the bulb?

The spring inside the socket could be shorting out the socket terminals when the spring is compressed by a bulb. Sometimes you can pull the terminal assembly out of the socket and replace the pigtail (terminals/insulator disk/spring/wires) with a new one (about $2 at AutoZone ). Connect the new pigtail to the old wires and push it all back into the socket.

With just a little more information, someone at alt.autos.gm will probably be able to give a better answer.

Good luck.

Rodan. ___________________________________________________

Rodan-

I am using the correct blub for the application as per the Sylvania/Osram guide. The bulb melts later after using the turn signal. The original burned out before I changed it.

There is no spring inside the style terminal on my car. There are four "contact" strips that meet the blub when inserted.

I am considering replacing the socket with one from the junk yard as all new/OEM part sellers want to sell the whole rear tail light assembly.

Thanks to all!

Rob

"Rob" wrote: RE: 97 Cavalier LS rear turn signal burns out.

I am using the correct blub for the application as per the Sylvania/Osram guide.

The bulb melts later after using the turn signal. The original burned out before I changed it.

There is no spring inside the socket. There are four contact strips that meet the bulb when inserted.

I am considering replacing the socket with one from the junk yard. New/OEM part sellers want to sell the whole rear tail light assembly. _________________________________________________

Use a probe (an awl or a fat needle) to dig out a piece of wire which may have broken off the original bulb and dropped down into the socket, causing the short circuit.

Use the probe to reposition contact strips if they were disturbed.

Good luck.

Rodan.

All seems ok inside the socket. As I mentioned before it's been cleaned out with electrical contact cleaner. Anyone else with any advice?

Can you elaborate on what you mean by the bulb's base melting. Isn't the base on this bulb made of brass?

What can you say in regard to this bulb's brightness after you replace it? Does it look normal? Dim? Too bright?

The bulbs base is plastic with two wires wrapped around the ends vertically. When I replace the blub it looks normal in brightness.

What is the bulb's type number?

Sylvania 3057LL

Well the heat that is melting the bulb's base can come from only a few places.

If either of the bulb's terminals is making less than good contact in the socket then high resistance there might generate enough heat to melt the plastic base. If this were the case one would think that bulb brightness might be affected. Similar results could occur if the internal connections inside the socket are deteriorated. Heat at the high resistance point could then conduct through the socket conductor into the bulb's base.

The bulb's filament generates quite a lot of heat itself. Could there be some reason that your lamp lens assembly is trapping the bulb's natural heat?

My recommendation would be to change the socket as a first step.

I replaced the socket with one from the salvage yard. Works fine.

Thanks,

Rob