JUST WONT RUN

84 BUICK LESABRE LIMITED, FRESH 307 V8 TAKEN FROM AN 89 BUICK STATION WAGON. TURNS OVER UNTIL THERE IS NO TOMORROW, BUT FOR SOME REASON WONT START MOST OF THE TIME, AND WHEN IT DOES START, RUNS VERY SHITTY. THIS
CAR HAS BEEN TO 8 DIFFERENT MECHANICS BUT NOT A ONE OF THEM CAN TELL ME WHATS WRONG WITH IT. IVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT 'MIGHT BE' THAT THE CARB AND DISTRIBUTOR ARENT COMPATABLE WITH THE CARS COMPUTER. OR ALSO COULD BE THAT IT MAY HAVE JUMPED A TOOTH ON THE TIMING CHAIN. IM PRETTY ILLITERATE WHEN IT COMES TO THESE THINGS SO I REALLY NEED SOME HELP OR ADVICE FROM SOMEONE WHO KNOWS THIS CAR AND THIS ENGINE. I HAVE SO MUCH MONEY TIED UP IN THIS CAR AND FOR 3 YEARS NOW SINCE I BOUGHT IT, IVE ONLY GOT TO DRIVE IT ONCE. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT!! -Desperate to Drive
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First of all was the engine the same size as the one you pulled out? If it was do you have the old distributor and carburetor that was in the car? I would put them back on this motor. As far as timing goes: roll the engine over and when the exhaust valve is open on #1 cylinder as the timing mark on the dampener pulley gets to the top the exhaust valve should close and intake should open at that exact time. If they don't the timing may have jumped a tooth, by the way if you don't know you can tell which is exhaust and which is intake by looking where the valve is lined up to. If it is lined up with the intake runner it is an intake valve.

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the carb and distributor from the old motor were already gone when i bought the car. If this would be the problem(carb & distrib.) , how hard and or expensive would it be to get and install a new computer and wiring harness?? As i recall i seem to remember someone saying that could get very expensive
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Sometimes it's even hard to switch engines in the same model year due to pin changes in the harness. The mismatch of parts is probably why the mechanics are flumuxed in their efforts to straighten it out. With the engine connected to the proper diagnostics someone could see what is wrong, but that would not fix it. If you were just driving this on a track or something where EPA regulations did not govern, you might be able to remove the electronic carb and distributor and go with something from an older era somewhat successfully. Parts are not cheap and I don't read into your post that you are up to that project at this time. So don't throw good money after bad.
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"Midget Tosser" wrote: > 84 BUICK LESABRE LIMITED, FRESH 307 V8 TAKEN FROM AN 89 BUICK > STATION > WAGON. TURNS OVER UNTIL THERE IS NO TOMORROW, BUT FOR SOME > REASON WONT > START MOST OF THE TIME, AND WHEN IT DOES START, RUNS VERY > SHITTY. THIS > CAR HAS BEEN TO 8 DIFFERENT MECHANICS BUT NOT A ONE OF THEM > CAN TELL ME > WHATS WRONG WITH IT. IVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT 'MIGHT BE' THAT > THE CARB AND > DISTRIBUTOR ARENT COMPATABLE WITH THE CARS COMPUTER. OR ALSO > COULD BE > THAT IT MAY HAVE JUMPED A TOOTH ON THE TIMING CHAIN. IM > PRETTY > ILLITERATE WHEN IT COMES TO THESE THINGS SO I REALLY NEED SOME > HELP OR > ADVICE FROM SOMEONE WHO KNOWS THIS CAR AND THIS ENGINE. I HAVE > SO MUCH > MONEY TIED UP IN THIS CAR AND FOR 3 YEARS NOW SINCE I BOUGHT > IT, IVE > ONLY GOT TO DRIVE IT ONCE. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT!! > -Desperate to Drive
Hi, What carb and dist are you useing? in 84 the cars would run without the computer pluged in to the dist,it mostly controled timeing, so if your car won’t run look into timeing bring it up on #1 and see where the rotor is pointing should be aimed at no1 plug tower on the cap if not either chain is jumped or your off a tooth on the dist. good luck Slimone
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slimone wrote:

Ah. This describes the behavior and symptoms my 87 Buick had, though with a V6.
My MAF/airflow sensor was shot. Idled somewhat okay, but zero power. My EGR valve was shot as well(both gone at the same time is a nearly undriveable car.)
But the turns over and won't start - that's timing. My guess is that your timing sensors are shot in the 89's engine, which *does* have known issues with timing sensors, gear, and such(as well as the electrical system - the electronics that control it go bad quite often as well)
In my case, it was the infamous synthetic timing cog teeth. Two teeth and a bunch of nubs. Of course it didn't run in that condition. Replaced with metal and bearings. The top end is as noisy as the lifters, now, but it runs and can't be killed.
Now, mine is a 1987 3800V6, but I can't imagine them not applying such stupid changes to their V8s by 1989. I'd check the timing sensors and gear first.
I took my car to 4 mechanics - one was "it's dead" - then I finally got it started and his mouth dropped open. Lol. "See, it does start - the compression is fine". I drove by this moron's place a while ago and pointed out that it didn't need a new engine - as he could see. I fixed the MAF, the EGR, and the timing, and the car should last until 300K miles at this rate.
I took it to the GM garage and it took them 1 hour to diagnose it with their computers. Any other choice on where to have it looked at will result in scratched heads as they don't have parts in stock like a major dealer that's been around for 20+ years(find an older repiar department) to swap in and the computers to diagnose it.
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I have a '63 Corvair that would not run well. After much trouble shooting I replaced the ballast resistor (don't know if your car has one) and it ran much better. It would falter under full throttle. I replaced the plug wires and it runs perfectly.
First, verify that plug routing is correct. I assume that you have checked the plugs.

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Scott Buchanan wrote:

snip > -Desperate to Drive
Did the old engine run ? If so, try the distributor / carb from the 84 engine. Locate # 1 plug wire, mark its location on distributor body, turn engine by hand until timing mark points to TDC [ top dead center ] now see if rotor points to mark, if way off, turn engine exactly one turn, check to see if rotor points to mark. The cam turns at 1/2 engine reveloution. [ takes 2 turns of crank, to equal 1 turn of cam ] The distributor is powered by cam " a tooth off " means the distributor rotor points at terminal before / after # 1 Assuming ignition is OK, and correctly timed, engine needs air / fuel to run A choke that won't open will starve engine for air, no fuel flow means no gas is entering carb. With timing correct, pour about 1 oz. of gas into carb, replace air cleaner, and crank, if engine runs, than dies out you've got a fuel problem. [ Fuel pump ? bad carb ? ] If engine still doesn't start, timing chain could be faulty. Take off a valve cover, crank engine, see if rocker arms move. Some bozo could have replaced the timing chain, and screwed up cam timing, but that's unlikely. As for chain slipping, bring engine to TDC, check rockers on # 1 cyl as you crank engine by hand. No action, turn 1 turn, try again, still no action = bad timing chain.
When I say, turn over by hand, put a socket on crank bolt, turn with breaker bar, still no luck .... Post again, I admire your patience, and am sure you'll have an answer.

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hey guys, i havent got around to work on this problem yet but thank you all for the advice, iim gonna put it all to good use. thanks
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