Hi To All:
My wife's '92 Accord LX died today as she was coasting to a stop,
fortunately at a slow speed on a neighborhood street. It seemed like
the battery at first, but a jump did no good and a subsequent check of
the voltage showed that this was OK. Only after the car sat for awhile
was I finally able to start it again, otherwise it would just turn
over. I got up to 20 mph and then the vehicle suddenly went dead. This
was a bit scary. My first thought (based on reading this board) was
the igniter, but Canadian Tire called and said that the "ignition
control module" was bad. Question: are these just the same part? Also,
what is the funciton of a related part called a "pickup"? Thanks in
advance for any help. - Paul D.
Hi : I guess that's a moot issue now, since Canadian Tire is already
ordering the ICM for installation tomorrow. Wish I'd known to try this
before I turned the car in to them, but my wife has to have it for
later this week so I couldn't wait. Just curious...what would this
protocol have told me in terms of diagnostic information? I'd really
like to learn all I can.Thanks. - Paul.
DO NOT go to Crappy Tire for service on a Honda!!! Or any car.
If the tach acts erratically before stalling and dash lights remain lit, I
would suspect the igniter or ignition coil.
If the tach instantly drops to 0 when it stalls and no dash lights come on,
I would suspect the ignition switch.
That would be the former scenario which you mentioned, at least in
this case. The tach did not instantaeously drop to zero. I therefore
am back to suspecting the igniter, at least if I understand you
correctly. - Paul.
I had something similar a few months back where the car just died
while backing out of a parking spot. I was told that it was the
"master module". That doesn't sound like the same thing as this, but
it is a 91 Accord (that just turned 100,000).
Hi: One more question...do you guys happen to know whether the Bosch
or Huco Igniters would be of better quality than what you get at the
dealer? I couldn't find a Honda brand igniter/ignition coil module per
se. Also, Canadian Tire replaced this part with a "Niefhoff", which
I've never hear of. - Paul
Based on both my experience with my 1991 Civic and reading
here, I now feel OEM is the only way to go for any ignition
(= distributor on down to the spark plugs) parts. The OEM
parts pay for themselves in longevity, with the caveat that
buying them at online OEM parts dealers is your best bet by
far. Not sure what Canada offers for online, though.
Hi - You just confirmed what I had heard earlier from others, namely
that OEM is the best way to go on certain Honda components. Sounds
like distributor and ignition parts both fall into this category, so I
will plan to go ahead and change out the generic igniter since it's
such a big safety concern. Many thanks for your assistance and have a
great weekend. - Paul.
igniters go at 12 month intervals. because of other reasons, i replaced
the original condenser on my distributor, and haven't had any more
problems with the igniter since - it's been nearly 3 years now. since
you're going to be in there, i strongly recommend you replace this part
at the same time if there is one with your distributor. and go oem on
the igniter btw.
Not sure what you mean by safety here, but it seems to me
the failure of the igniter is akin, worst case, to running
out of gasoline. Which, granted, certainly could be an
unsafe situation. But truth is a lot of parts can suddenly
go amiss and produce a scenario like running out of
I bought my 91 Civic new; I am the only owner. In 1997, the
car had a month or so of bad starting, then one day the car
simply would not start after sitting in the garage. I did
not know any better, and the Firestone shop where I had it
towed put in a non-OEM igniter. This non-OEM igniter was
still doing fine until 2003when the ignition coil failed. At
the suggestion of the import shop and from reading here, at
the same time I put in an OEM igniter. Thus the non-OEM
igniter lasted at least as long as the OEM one.
OTOH, I have heard it suggested that the failure of the
ignition coil could be related to the non-OEM igniter.
I keep the non-OEM igniter as a spare for long trips only.
Because, following a long trip where the OEM igniter failed,
once I got home I think I would repace the spare with
another OEM one. Not that it's totally a piece of cake to
remove and install an igniter. But it's not that hard,
either, after one has done it once, and if one is reasonably
handy and patient.
I recall the "Ignition Control Module" and igniter being
synonymous, by the way.
The scary thing was suddenly losing power brakes and steering. At
least I think that's what happened. In terms of oem vs. non-oem, I
guess some of that is just the luck of the draw. But wanting to keep
the odds as much in my favor as possible, will go oem this time around
and keep my fingers crossed. Have a nice weekend. - Paul.
I think you might have a touch of confusion here. There are
ABS brakes (= anti-lock brakes), but they are not affected
by a loss of ignition anything. The brake system (ABS or
otherwise) relies on mechanical systems, when push comes to
shove. Maybe, with a lot of coincidences at work, losing
certain electrical features (all not really ignition
related) might compromise the ABS action, but the braking
action will, for the overwhelming part, still be very much
intact. So you'd have to, ya know, both lose certain very
specific electrical (non-ignition) features and be in a
situation where ABS is essential (really wet or snowy roads,
As for power steering: The "power" part comes from the
engine crankshaft powering the PS pump via the PS belt.
Again, all mechanical. A loss of the igniter will cause the
crankshaft to slow, but then the whole car is slowing down,
too. Also, fact is the driver can still quite safely steer
the car if, say, the PS belt were removed or if it broke.
Making really large turns or maneuvers simply takes more
"umph" on the part of the driver as s/he turns the steering
wheel. The "power assist" is gone, but steering ability is
igniter/ignition control module are the same.
it could be that, but while some people say this is an intermittent
issue, in my experience, igniters die, then stay dead forever. check
into the coil and the main relay as potential other culprits. read the
diagnostics at tegger.com.
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