bATTERY LIFE 2001 ELANTRA

My 2001 Elantra still has the original battery. I have only 40K miles on it, regular servcing as per the manual.
The only time it failed to start was after being
in the airport parking lot for three weeks, the battery needed a boost.
This morning the power door locks did not operate but the car started and we drove away. For the rest of the day the car door locks operated normally, locking and unlocking under power.
My question is whether this is a sign the battery is on the blink.
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Original batteries last only 3 years, you're way overdue. I would install a new battery today.
Tom
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snipped-for-privacy@excite.com wrote:

Ha, ha, ha... Tell that to the many OEM batteries I've had that lasted 5-9 years (yes, the OEM Delco in my 86 Jeep Comanche lasted 9 years). Recommending that someone replace their battery because their door locks don't work is simply stupid. Sorry, no way to sugar coat something that far out.
Matt
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With as far as you claim you went in school, they never taught you to try and be nice once in a while? Maybe something like this:
Although 3 years is the battery manufacturers recommended replacement interval, I've had many vehicles over the years that had OEM batteries last much longer than that. One even last 9 years!! You may want to check the battery in your key fob, or if you don't have one of them, possibly the fuse for the door locks could be loose or "weak" and in need of replacement. It is very unlikely that the car battery would be too weak to open the door locks, but have enough juice to start the car. But if you still suspect it, take it to a reputable shop and have it tested. Or test it yourself if you have a meter and know what you are doing.
Eric
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On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 19:00:57 GMT, "Eric G."

Thanks Eric, I was thinking along those lines, will check the fuse for the door locks first.
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While Eric's correct that your issue likely has nothing to do with the battery, it's been my experience that the Hyundai OE batteries rarely last longer than yours has already. It wouldn't be a bad idea to keep an eye on it, but I don't think I'd replace it in a panic, either.
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On Sat, 05 Aug 2006 17:10:01 -0400, "hyundaitech"

Thanks. Any recommendations for a replacement battery.
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irwell wrote:

I wouldn't suggest a Hyundai battery after hyundaitech's comment about three years being a typical life. That is abysmal for a car battery. I've had good luck with both Delco and Sears Diehards (the top-end Diehards, not the el cheapo versions). Interstate has tested well by CR in the past. Buy one that has at least a 60 month warranty and you are likely getting a decent one. The warranty is prorated so you may not get much if your battery dies early, but the warranty is some indication of the confidence the manufacturer has in the battery.
Matt
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wrote:

My 2001 Accent still have the original battery and it is still cranking strong. In the fall, a trickle charger is used to keep it topped up. I plan to replace the battery at the slightest sign of trouble.
I use contact cleaner at the battery posts and ground. It did wonders for the pulse generator connection.
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The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion) batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean batteries in *my* car.
The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."
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On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:16:45 -0400, "hyundaitech"

Thanks for the info. The power door lock is still ongoing. Here is a summary of the events.
A) Most of the time turning the key in the driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
B) Only the driver's door will lock from the key position, the other doors have to be manually locked.
C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally, so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound as the key is turned.
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There are two door lock relays behind the passenger side of the dash. The problem is almost certainly in one of them, but it could be either.
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On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 12:36:38 -0400, "hyundaitech"

Thanks, will take it into the dealer for them to look at.
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This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock cylinders?
I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also refuse to turn with the key.
After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.
irwell wrote:

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Thanks, I will give that a shot.

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On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:16:45 -0400, "hyundaitech"

I can't speak about the Korean batteries but I have had several conversations with US battery folks in the past that boiled down to the technology being so mature that the average user will get a few months more than the warranty he buys. On one hand they know why they fail and how to avoid it. On the other the competition is tough enough that no one is giving you much more than you pay for.
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I would just charge the battery overnight with a 10 amp charger to even it out. If you can check the SP of the acid in the battery. If you can try getting a battery that still has the caps that allow you too. I think Wal-Mart still sells that type.
Good luck. irwell wrote:

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