I used a can of SeaFoam engine cleaner in an attempt to help the oil
consumption While the engine was at idle it stalled with a sound of a
single clunk like an engine "dieseling" When I wne to restart it the
engine would not turn over so I pulled the plugs and then got a big
squirt out of the rear driver side cylinder.
After reinstalling the plugs the engine started and runs fine but now
has a knock. I had a very occasional lifter tick before but this eems
to be lower in the motor and does not want to go away. On a cold
startup it takes ~ 3 seconds to start ticking/knocking.
What I believe I did was to hurt a rod bearing. The truck has 200k
miles but I am willing to put a set of rod bearings in it hoping to
keep it alive a while longer. Does my diagnosis seem on track and what
is involvved in pulling the oil pan?
I'd sure appreciate any advice/tips.
it into the crankcase by way of the rocker cover oil entry hole or did you
attempt to pour it into the intake manifold? Usually, you add it to the
engine oil and then drive the truck a ways to warm it up, then drain the oil
and refill. Some folk I know use it by pouring it into the intake - if you
did that, and you added too much, you can easily do what you may have done -
hydraulically lock a piston.
You may also have simply dislodged a piece of carbon and it is now sitting
on top of the piston, hitting the head every time the piston goes to TDC. I
wouldn't be so quick to pronounce the engine to need a bearing job. If the
engine is running well other than a knock, it might be worth while to simply
drive it a little while and see what happens. You could also try putting
some Marvel Mystery Oil down the intake (in small quantities) in an attempt
to dislodge whatever may be on top of the piston, if there is anything
there. You could also pull that head, too, and check....
If you in fact did hydraulically lock the engine....The result of that is
either bent valves (resulting in a misfiring cylinder) or a bent rod,
resulting in a knock (what you may have done). Either way, you're looking at
pulling that head, the pan, and that piston/rod combo - you may as well pull
the engine and put a set of rings and bearings in it. If you do that, make
sure you change out the crankshaft seals at the front and rear of the
engine. After 200K miles, they've done their job.
Pls let us know how you used SEA FOAM.
I put the SeaFoam in through the power brake vacuum hose. I've done
this before on the Troop and it worked fine but I believe I was too
aggressive and/or should have had the motor above idle. I've done this
in a number of cars with good success and it cleans the heck out of the
I knew it was hydralocked, that's why I pulled the plugs to get it to
I also hoped it was a lifter or carbon but pulling the plug wire for #6
made it go away so I knew it had to come apart.
As it turns out I have pulled the pan (that was a fun time) and indeed
the #6 rod is visibly bent. The rod bearing looked ok though I have
swapped them. I have a used rod and piston on the way from CA.
Tomorrow I will strip it down and remove the head. I thought about
pulling the motor but would have to borrow a hoist and I don't have
much reason to belive I would gain much from new rings as even newer
motors seem to have the consumption issue. I plan to run a hone in #6,
have the salvage rod and piston weight matched to the old one, put
rings on that one piston and put it back together.
Short history on the truck is it was broken down sitting at a cabin in
a mountain community next door to my wifes Uncles cabin. Owner was a
friend of the uncle who really wanted the truck gone as the cabin was
for sale and they had replaced the Trooper. if the Un cle wanted it he
could have it, but he did not think it was worth the parts to get it
I put a timing belt, water pump and drive belts on it and drove it 800
miles home. That was this summer and I have been merciless on the
truck. Just wish there was a way to add a couple of hundred foot
pounds of torque to it.
I've pulled the radiator and will dive into the
Mark, sounds like you have things well in hand. My experience with these is
if you do any major work to them, somehow the
front or rear seals start leaking, and then you're dripping oil all over.
But, as you've said, it's a LOT more work. It kinda sucks when doing
this work is self-inflicted, but if your casualty helps someone else to
avoid it, then it won't be for a lost cause. Thanks for sharing the process
you've been through.
May all your exhaust manifold bolts come loose without breaking, and may
your head bolts all come free w/o taking the threads with them.
Good luck; let us know how it all turns out!
I pulled it with the exhaust manifold in place and that ought to be a
tech tip somewhere as it seems a lot easier that way - you just undo
the two nuts holdign the exhaust pipe. I dont intend to remove it at
all but for sure it would be a lot easier to get loose off of the truck
with an impact wrench. The problem now is I broke a head bolt off so
I'm now working to get the remaining ~ 2" of threads removed. I
started with an easyout and managed to break that off as well. Nice.
Now I have that drilled out but will go tomorrow and get a few cobalt
bits to work with the bolt remover kit I borrowed. It is different
from the normal reverse thread easy outs in that you drill a hole all
the way through and then you beat this fluted deal through it and use a
nut type deal to (hopefully) unthread it. Those head bolts were tough.
Do you know if the head bolts and/or the main bolts that hold the
oiling manifold to the mains are torque to yield?
In the event the bolt removers don't work do you know if there is a
reasonable way to get a heli coil into a head bolt like that?
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