Tire Stores and lug nut torque settings

Not a shock at all. Tire shop morons can be found everywhere. If you rotate at home, you can lightly lube the stud before reassembling then torque exactly to specs. If using alloys, always slightly loosen then retorque a day or two later.

To make things easier, invest in a good air compressor and tank and purchase good peneumatic impact wrench to loosen up tight lugs and such. I used mine to loosen some unbelievably tight drain plugs in the transfer case and transmission during first maintenance.

Just 'where' are you going to find the new 'wet torque' specs for your lug nuts? It 'sure' isn't the dry torque setting of 95 ft lb, it has to be way less. Some charts say 60% or less depending on the grade of the stud.

All torque settings given in books are 'dry' torque settings with a clean dry stud or bolt unless they specify 'wet'. Dry is an 'understood'.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

My 20" X lug wrench works for me and fits my budget. I have Jeep ECCO alloys and that's why I loosen and re-torque. Good point. BTW "Fawn Leibowitz" ROTF LMAO! Animal House, right? :-)

I am going to agree with Mike. Dry torque is correct. Use a WD40 or light oil or grease, etc and that will be over spec/torqued.

Torque is torque, wet or dry. I've heard arguments both ways, and I think the fanatical dry-torque crowd is full of horsehockey. Same goes for the dry-torque spark plug crowd. Lube those suckers up!

Animal House was a stitch! I love good comedy almost as much as the silly responses that newsgroups tend to attract.

Cheers!

A drill and wire brush on the threads makes the dry torqueing much easier. Just watch for one of the click type torque wrenches to go on sale and safe your rotors. The old X tire lug wrenches are great for spinning them on and off, but nowhere near good enough for alloy wheels.

Not quite... The amount of force applied to the fastener (stretch) is different based on dry vs. wet torquing.

As long as one knows how much force to apply to the fastener, sure wet vs dry doesn't matter.

Keep bringing it on...

Nope.

You seem to fit right in there 'Fawn', but telling folks to do dangerous stuff in a public forum is a no no, whether you think it is a joke or not...

There is a major difference in wet and dry torque settings.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:

Dunce!

The object is to stretch the bolt a predetermined amount so that it is in tension. Stretching it beyond some safe % of it's yield strength is a serious no no. Lubrication decreases the friction in the threads, increases the torque going into stretching the bolt.

Fawn Liebowitz wrote:

uhm, does it really matter that much? (as long as they all have the same torque?) I mean, we put 33"-s on them , re-gear pinions, put more engine torque on them while bouncing on the rocks. I know there are specs, but....

As long as they are the same torque and you do not exceed the spec for your lugs. If you exceed the lug spec they will neck down and eventually crack. The last thing you want to happen when wheeling is to have a wheel come off. Some vehicles are very picky and even more so with mag rims.

Oil those lug nuts up good, folks. We have to give Mike something to spend endless sleepless nights over! LOL! Are all Jeep fanatics as anal as this guy? I know a few here in AZ that fit the bill. Most are quite insane, of course.

Moving right along...

Nope, it don't, except for those folks with a slide-rule inside their pocket protector. I've been wheeling 50+ years and have never, ever seen a broken lug that resulted from putting a drop of oil on a wheel stud. I *have* seen rusted lugs that broke that sucker off when you try to remove it, without ever having the benefit of that drop of lube during assembly. Case closed.

hey!! Mike has been here for a good while, he knows what he's talking about

right, sometimes I torque then at 95 ft-lbs sometimes at 110 or so. it's the difference in torque between lug nuts that warps rotors (I was told)

Fawn, you need to check ASM specs before you spread this crap. Ask a certified mechanic to lube those studs and see what response you get - they really got burned way back when mag wheels rolled out and they didn't believe that a torque wrench was necessary. Now, they pay attention instead of irate customers....

Well, having drilled out a few busted head bolts after not bothering to clean and dry the threads I'd have to say, yes it does. Now, head bolt torques generally run closer to the failure strength that lug nut torques but the same metallurgy is involved. Oh, and have you ever tried to bust one of those over-torqued !@#$% loose after a year or so when there was no air wrench handy????

Think the difference between 95 and 60 or less. That means when you put

95 on wet, you 'really' are putting more like 140 or more on them. This stretches them and can damage rims. I have seen more than one rim with worn out holes from overtorquing like this also.

I mean just go look it up for your own education so you know the 'real' answer before you start snapping waterpump and head bolts.

Unless you think a poster with a fake name from Animal house, the movie, is telling you the gospel truth. Folks like that are called trolls, they spout total bullshit to see what kind of a reaction they can get. Welcome to Usenet...

Mike