Lug Nut Thread Galling

I've been experiencing some problems with lug nuts on a '97 Toyota Landcruiser seizing. The end result is that I shear off the occasional stud when attempting to remove a nut. I've been careful about checking the nuts' torque, but this doesn't seem to help.

The nuts, studs and axle are steel but the wheels are aluminum. I've never had this happen on any other vehicle I've owned, but this is one of the few that has aluminum wheels. What could be causing this? Can the aluminum/steel interface between nut and wheel cause corrosion between the steel/steel nut to stud threads?

Also, is coating the stud threads with a bit of anti-seize a good or bad idea?

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.
Loading thread data ...

Yes...

Not sure about wiping the threads, but I would wipe the base of the lugnut.

Reply to
Noozer

Definitely do the bottoms of the lug nuts.

I do put a small amount of wheel grease on the first few threads of the lug nuts. It is generally frowned upon, but if you're having this problem, I would.

In the toyota group, a former Factory Rep has said it's not a good idea in general, but that he does it, too.

Periodically check them, but after a LIGHT coat of grease and proper torque, I haven't had one loosen up yet.

And it SURE makes it easy getting them off if you have to!

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote in news:469ED480.ED7AD134 @hovnanian.com:

Do you drive through deep water on occasion?

Reply to
Tegger

The fact that the stud shears off when you try to loosen it means the thread(stud)/nut interface is galling not the nut to wheel interface. I would coat the threads with anti-seize and reduce the torque by 10-20%. Is your torque wrench calibrated???

Reply to
CraigFL

Aluminum/steel couples are galvanically active, but the corrosion would be on the aluminum, not the steel. You have other issues.

I have used antiseize in situations where I was having lug problems. Sometimes you have to, even though "received wisdom" is that the threads should be dry for torque figures to be applicable. Derate the torque 15-20% with antiseize and have another go at it.

Reply to
hls

Give the studs a quick shot of WD40 or similar before putting the nuts on. I've been doing that for decades, and have never stripped one or had any other problem.

-Dan

Reply to
Dan Youngquist

Rarely, but yes (this is Washington State after all ;-)).

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

That's what puzzled me.

I've put some anti-seize on the threads. I'm planning on checking my nuts frequently to ensure that they don't loosen up (my car's as well ;-)). I posted the question to get the group's wisdom on doing this, but the concensus seems to be that its not a big deal when torque is set properly.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

No, but its a beam type. Not a precision tool, but not much to go wrong. It might be worth checking it just once to see how far off it is.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Could the nuts be poor quality aftermarket stainless or something like that?

Stainless will gall easier than a plain steel nut.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Reply to
Mike Romain

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@seanet.com:

OK then, have you closely checked the threads to see if they've ever been crossthreaded or overtorqued?

If overtorqued, the threads on the nuts or the studs may be shifted over, like the example shown on this page:

formatting link
'd say it would be more likely the nut threads that would be shifted over than the stud threads.)

Reply to
Tegger

Some opinions, partly in response to what's already been stated.

Torqueing lug nuts is almost useless. You do it to get the torque equal across the studs, but you also know it has almost no chance of coming up with the manufacturers hoped-for stud stretch/clamping pressure.

Antiseize the threads, not where the nut seats on the wheel

Some lug nuts are more prone to this than others. Make sure the threads in the lug nut aren't chromed, or some such thing. Maybe run a tap through 'em to make sure they aren't undersized, or "off pitch" a bit. Yes, I've seen it.

Dave

Reply to
spamTHISbrp

no, the anti-seize goes on the threads and the tapered part of the lug nut remains dry. reason being, it is the friction there that keeps the nut tight.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

The beam type is probably just as accurate as a clicker, just harder to read accurately.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

The last time I had this nut off, it came off easily, didn't look suspicious and was tightened just like all the other nuts. When I took the nuts off this time, they all came off except for this one. It was tight and when I leaned on the wrench, the stud just sheared off.

I never noticed anything out of the ordinary about this one nut. Had it felt differently the last time I took it off, I'd have checked it. I do most of the work on this vehicle. Its been years since I had it into a tire shop where someone else might have overlooked a cross threaded condition.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Original equipment.

Yep. Stainless on plain steel can gall and end up seized like a steel to aluminum thread, but for different reasons. I don't think these are stainless. They aren't 'appearance' parts and appear to be painted (powder coated?) black.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Biggest hassle is usually plain old dirt in the threads. People will back the nut off the stud without cleaning the grit off it, and the grit jams and tears the threads. Now they interfere with each other and soon seize up. Anti-seize will change bolt stress big time. I have figures here somewhere that require torque reductions as large as 40% for zinc- based anti-seize paste. Not reducing the torque when using the nti- seize will overstretch the stud and it'll either crack and fail or it'll not maintain tension on the wheel because its elasticity is gone.

Dan

Reply to
Dan_Thomas_nospam

I have never used Anti-seize on anything before and I have never had any problems with whatever, as far as not using Anti-size on anything is concerned.Call me a skeptic or whatever, but I just don't believe in Anti-seize.

I own three torque wrenches.One of them is a Mac inch pounds torque wrench that belonged to my dad many years ago, I know that torque wrench dates back to the 1950s or before, metinks before, it has it's own metal case too.The second one is a foot pounts needle gage torque wrench and the third one is a Sears ''click stop?'' foot pounds torque wrench.How would I go about calibrating my torque wrenches? I am really not interested in sending any of my torque wrenches off anywhere to be calibrated. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Well there are a few ways. One is to track down a tool truck and ask them. Many of them have calibration gear in the truck and will check a wrench for a couple bucks. You can also use a beam style wrench to check a clicker by connecting them up with the proper socket. Then set the clicker and see what the beam reads when it clicks. I welded a junk socket to a heavy hunk of iron so the wrench is held at 90 degrees to the bench. Then you hang a proper sized weight on the handle to check it. I also have an angle gauge unit that I use a lot. I now have an electronic gauge mounted in the bench that allows me to check one if it gets dropped.

I picked up a wrench just for wheel lugs. It is a longer wrench with

3/4" drive and the sockets are coated so they don't scratch anything.

Keep in mind that most of the consumer wrenches on the market are accurate to around 10% or so.

Reply to
Steve W.

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.