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Low temp guage/no heat

OK, I did it by the book: drained the anti-freeze, flushed the cooling system, refilled and let it run, adding AF when the level went down. Go to the top, and let it run, sealed the system and ran some more. Guage moved to mid-level and the fan turned on.

But, when driving, the guage goes to clod. Even if I idle it for 10 minutes, and the needle climbs 1/2 way, when you start moving, the guage goes to cold.

I removed the AF, replaced the thermostat, according to instructions and the Haynes manual, and filled, 'burped' and tested again.

Same results. Any ideas?

Reply to
Hachiroku
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Burp it again. An air bubble at the sending unit will give a false cold reading. Does the heater put out hot air after it's warmed up? If so, the engine is warm but the sending unit isn't contacting the coolant. Depending on the routing of hoses, some bubbles can be hard to get out.

-- Jack

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Reply to
Jack Hunt

I was filling it through the filler neck, not through the bottle.

But, I also noticed, when it gets REAL warm (idling only) there seems to be a leak from the water pump. Water pump and timing belt on Friday...

Thanks!

Reply to
Hachiroku

This should be interesting.

-- Jack '05 M3i

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Reply to
Jack Hunt

I already passed on it. It's not that tough, SOHC, but I don't have the tools to get around the motor mounts.

Reply to
Hachiroku

The last water pump I did was on a Honda V4. Two heads, four cams, solid lifters, one gigantic timing belt. This was on a full dress motorcycle and every piece of body work had to come off, except for the tail light.

What tools do you need? Many parts stores will loan or rent tools.,

-- Jack

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Reply to
Jack Hunt

Yeah...it's in the shop. Buk-buk-BUCKAW! Chicken...maybe if it were a non-interference engine I'd have tried it!

Reply to
Hachiroku

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