Can any one explain me ... in detail... (few tuning issues)

Hi, Greeting to All Experts,
Well, I have posted a message with the subject, what could be the problem & what to replace. I got replies from Mr. LAmbach & Mr. Tiger
thanks for that.
I would like to know these following thing to get tune my MB to get more consumption & to rectify other issues. ( please explain me in deatail)
My car details as follows:- 260 MB, 6 cylinders, 2.6 Liter engine, Auto transmission, Model 91
1.) How to adjust the Engine Valve?
2.) How to adjust the Distributor (timing)?
3.) IF fuel accumulator is not working as suppose to be, will it cause to have any vibration?
4.) If valve seals allow engine oil to be sucked in to engine all the time, there will having any vibration? Or in the morning with first start only?
5.) If cause of spark plug cable is poor ignition to spark plug, this can be a reason to fuel more consumption?
Once again thanks for all
All your comments & advices & recommendations are appreciated
have good time
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There is no adjustment. Your valves have hydraulic adjuster which relies on oil pressure to take up the slack. However, they can only do so much if abnormal wear exist... or that the oil hasn't been changed regularly that it coked up and compromised the movement of the adjuster.
Try changing to synthetic oil... your engine will probably be very loud for a first couple hundreds of miles... but after that, it will settle down... a sign of that the hydraulic adjusters are sticking.

With a timing light, you loosen up the allen bolt holding the distributor in position... and just turn slightly until desired timing mark. Study your timing marks on the main pulley. They will confuse alot of people who never done MB... Each mark with number on it is 10 degree.

Fuel accumulator job is to hold the pressure in fuel injection system when the engine is off... so when engine is hot, with pressure in fuel line... will prevent gas from turning into vapor.
If it is broken or leaking internally, then you will have a very hard hot start problem... usually lets say engine is hot... you went to store to get food... 15 minutes later back in your car and starting but cannot start and takes forever to start.

If it is really bad leak, every first start will have blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe.

Spark plug cable? It can be but not that much of fuel consumption problem. Spark plug itself if very worn will waste about 15% of your fuel consumption.
A bad spark plug wire WILL cause vibration as in misfire... you can identify it by measuring the resistance of each wire with your multimeter... if one wire is off by more than 200 ohm from others... it definitely will cause engine vibration.
Now from all your questions you asked... I am assuming you are feeling vibration when car is idling and in gear... if yes, you probably got bad motor mounts if it has never been changed. Spark plug wire can do the same even with good motor mounts but makes it worse with bad motor mounts.
Last possibility of engine vibration is bad voltage overload relay... which causes momentary interuptions in ignition... It is hard to believe, but I swear.. by changing it, you feel a difference... especially on the 4 cylinder engine.
Whew! That a whole lotta typing! Let us know what is your problem in detail and we'll try to help... instead of fishing expedition. I know you are probably trying to determine if your mechanic is trying to drain your pocket of unnecessary repairs.
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On a 103 engine?!? Wow! You have totally different 2.6L 103 engines in your neck of the woods :) All the ones I have ever seen, have the rotor mounted to the end of the camshaft and the dist cap bolts to the head cover........
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Oops... I spoke in general terms... I was thinking of my V8 116 engine.
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Thanks Mr. Tiger .. (sorry I don't know your actual name.. :) )
I will get back to you soon in detail.. what is my exact problem...
Yes.. My MB is 103 Engine with 6 in line.
as Mr. Karl explain " there is a router mounted to the end of the camshaft and the dist cap bolts to the head cover........ "
Thats why I have asked about above things,
have a good day
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Your timing is not adjustable. It is controlled by the EZL conrol unit. If it is off a little, make sure the vacuum hose is connected to the EZL and it has manifold vacuum going to it. If the timing is off AND the vacuum hose is on and working, you need a new EZL.

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On Sun, 06 Jun 2004 16:46:28 GMT, "Karl" wrote:

I would agree that the engine should run smoothly using the engine management - if it doesn't then fooling it into working properly will only confuse issues more when it goes even more wrong at a later date. That said....
There is what looks like a timing advance plug in the passanger footwell (under the plastic foot rest, that lives under the carpet). It is like the one under the bonnet (hood) but it has a sealed tie wire over it - giving it a look of adjustable and set in the factory then sealed with a tamperproof locked wire. You couldsnip the thin locking wire and adjust away if you really wanted to I guess.
But I may be wrong ;) 300 Essie
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1994 Mercedes E280 [W124] 99,000 miles (R.I.P)
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Thanks for replies & recommendations
Mr. Karl can you explain me in detail about EZL.
Well, Mr. Tiger asked me exact problem . Which I have & bothering me is 2 things
1.)Fuel consumption . 6 Kilometer Per Liter @ 120 KMPH ( Main concerned) 2.)There is a single knock (or) jerk (or) vibration at every 2 minutes (approx)
I would like to find the exact reasons for it.
Apart from these things my engine is working fine and smooth, no rough idle or no big vibrations. (Not Noticeable)
My Mechanic (friend) checked all the areas which you are all recommended like spark plugs replaced, Air/ fuel ration adjustments, rotor opened and cleaned lots of carbon deposits etc
All suggestions & recommendations are appreciated.
Have a good day
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Mmm... if engine runs smooth and fine for two minutes straight... then you get that jerk.... momentary problem. I can only assume three possibilities.
1.Overload Protectuin Relay... the relay with a red fuse on the top... behind your battery. My experience with this problem is usually consistent vibratiions when everything else is replaced... The most recent experience is that it shuts off your engine... and you can start it up immediately... sometime 4 minutes later... or if it is really hot... much longer.
2. Fuel filter... sometime sediments if alot get stirred up and partially clogs the passage caused the hesitation... and the vibration shakes it loose again... it's a wild guess... I only hear this on diesel where algae does this.
3.Fuel pump relay... when it gets old, car will run funny... all cars will react differently. Worse case scenario is you can't start at all. Look on the side of your fuel pump relay for a date of manufacture... if it is same year as your car... change it now. This also goes for the Overload Protection Relay.
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