WMS High Velocity Intake?

Sorry... meant to include the link

Try upgrading your intake manifold, exhaust system, cams, and perhaps heads first. I'm pretty sure the factory air filter does the job just fine for the power the engine makes in stock form.

Sounds like you're basically on the right track. The best thing you can do on the exhaust end is longtube headers (BBK, Mac, etc.) coupled with a shorty X pipe (BBK) and a straight-through cat-back system like the Magnaflow. This really opens things up in the exhaust flow dept. but it will be kinda loud.

That looks like a pretty cool piece. I think for that kind of money you'd be better off changing the throttle body and upper intake plenum such as this setup from Accufab.

Add the K&N system tothis and you'll have a very trick intake setup.

Basically, a CAI by itself isn't gonna do a lick of good except to lighten your wallet a little bit unless your motor NEEDS more air. In its stock form the SOHC get plenty of air from their stock intake setups. I guess what I'm getting at is this... I think you're basically on the right track but it would make sense to do things in the correct order. In your case I'd go this way:

1. Weld-in subframe connectors (should be first on ANY list)
2. Exhaust system
3. Intake
4. Gears and chip simultaneously

The reason I'd wait for the gears and chip til last is that you'll need the other components in place before the chip is burned plus you'll need speedo correction when you get the gears done. The stock computer tune will operate the motor just fine with the other mods.

Good Luck!

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1998 GT Coupe 5-spd. Bright Atlantic Blue K&N FIPK, Tri-Ax, 3.73's, FRPP Coated Shorties, SpeedCal, P&P 2K Heads, 2K Intake, Bassani X-Pipe, Bassani Cat-Back, Subframe Connectors, JMS Chip, GMS MAF, Accufab Throttle Body, Eagle Alloy Wheels

I've put a lot of money into my '89 LX and have learned the hard way about what is the most bang for the buck mods. Since you have a 2003 GT convertible (i.e. a heavy model) I would suggest skipping all these little modifications and go straight for a blower. The Kenne Bell kit can be had for $3,700 for a non-intercooled kit and $4,800 for the intercooled one. This sounds expensive but you'll spend $500 for gears, $200 for a CAI, $1,000 for exhaust and $500 for a good dyno tune. This adds up to $2,200 and you'll be lucky to get 20 rwhp for your trouble. This represents a cost of $110/hp. Add another $1,500 to the $2,200 and buy a Kenne Bell kit for $3,700 and it will gain you close to 120 rwhp and 100+ ft-lbs of torque on a bone stock. The intercooled kit will gain you about 180 rwhp. This equates to $30.8/hp and $26.7/hp, respectively.

Many Mustang owners make the mistake of installing all these typical mods and then are disappointed when they gain 20 rwhp. IMO, the the hp they return aren't close to justifying their cost. For $3,700 the Kenne Bell kit comes with everything you need. From fuel injectors to a computer chip. You don't need to spend any more unless you pay for installation which runs about $500. There are other blower kits that are even cheaper but I have a soft spot for the KB's. They make the

4.6L engines perform like a 460 cubic inch motor and give huge hp/torque gains across the entire rpm range.

My advice is to keep sav> Hi all,

Actually -

There is another option that someone on the group turned me on to. This is the option I think of as safer for your engine but getting you noticable horsepower/torque:

doing the 99-up headswap.... As mentioned in an earlier post you can pick up the parts for about $1200.00 shipped from

or from Universal Ford in Baltimore MD. Actually, it's the 2001-up kit that you want so you can use your existing valve covers. The install price will vary from around $500.00 to $1000.00 depending on the shop, etc., etc. After this is done, the results of anything else you do to the car in the way of induction, intake, timing, and exhaust mods will have a MUCH greater effect on performance. NOTE: if you go this route you can not supercharge I hear because compression is too high. BUT this route is safer on your engine. So... just getting heads done will cost you between $1,500 to $2000, depending on labor. That swap alone gets you around 50 to 60 extra horsepower. Then if you decide to make all those other changes you mentioned in the beginning of this thread, they will have greater effect. So you can go this route and pay $1700 less then blower route and have an engine less likely to explode but less extra power of a blower BUT the benefits are: (1) less stress on your engine (2) FUTURE MODS - With that extra $1700 you can go ahead and add gears, exhaust, and that intake stuff and I'm betting end up with very close to the same horsepower as if you had gone the blower route. AND keep in mind this is normally aspirated horsepower, which I'm betting is a bit more ... available at any RPM than a supercharger... but I'm just repeating what I heard so hey maybe an expert will confirm or discredit what I'm saying... Another benefit to this route is you don't have to come up with large amounts of cash at one time. You can order your heads for $1,200. Wait until you have the $500 to $1,000 to install. Do that... then drive your car until you can afford those other mods like gears, exhaust, etc... It's the route I'm going to go with my 96 GT convertible that is bone stock except for 3.73 gears. I'd love to hear what alternatives there are....

"Michael Johnson, PE" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com...

I guess that's why I like this group so much. Four replies - four different strategies :)

I'm surprised I haven't seen the 'Dump the GT - get a Cobra' suggestion yet :D

Thanks for the replies guys!