95Max won't start

probably has a bad starter.

Pull the key all the way out, reinsert, and try again. Sometimes a bad ignition or bad sensor will not work intermittently, and in this case I found that pulling the key in between tries would bring it to life. When the number of non-starts got more consistent, it reported a Check Engine Light code that helped me fix it. However, if this has no effect, I would begin with the starter. I don't like throwing parts at an undiagnosed problem, but if it's time for a new alternator and battery, the starter probably also has enough miles that replacement will pay in the long run.

Dave

Could it be the starter switch? I just replaced one ($32 for the part at Nissan) two weeks ago in my '95 GXE. The symptom was that turning the key to the start position did nothing. Had to turn the key several times from the off to the start position before it would engage.

This switch is in the steering column behind the key. Took about a half hour to disassemble and reassemble the plastic around the column.

Jim G

Jim,

thanks for this tip, this is the problem that I'm having with my 95 Max.

Thanks. Mike

Do you have electricity? When you open the door, do the courtesy light work normally? No, check the battery voltage first on the battery posts,then on the cables to make sure there is no bad contact. Even with the headlights on and the heater blower on, these two voltages will differ by at most a few hundreths of a volt. When you turn the ignition key to the running position, do the dashboard warning lights work? What happens to the heater blower if you turn it on? It works? Do the dashboard warning lights dim? When you turn the ignition key to the starting position, do the dashboard warning lights dim?

Please try to apply a systematic diagnostic procedure before replacing any part. Do not always immediately your mechanic! It is cheaper for you and it is better for the environment.

When the system runs normally (engine at 1500 RPM or above), the alternator and its controller maintain a voltage of 14.7 volts plus or minus 0.2 volt with or without all accessories on (headlights, air conditionning, rear window defogger, etc.)

Just a month ago, I heard a knocking noise under the hood. Being worried, I stopped at the closest garage from home. The mechanic diagnosed my engine severely damaged internally. I brought the car back under the car port. I could not believe it. At idle, it did not shake, and it accelerated as usual. After a week of intermittent searching, I found that the harmonic balancer (the crankshaft pulley) was damaged! The engine was OK internally. How much would I have had to pay to have the engine repaired or replaced?

I have had my 95 SE 5-spd since May 94, so I have experienced things mentioned in other replies.

Did you clean the battery terminals when replacing the battery. The easiest way to tell if there is a potential battery or main electical connection problem, is to turn on the interior light and see if it severely dims or goes out when attempting to crank.

For a long time, my starter cranked slower in a regular lope like one of the windings was dead. Eventually it stopped on the dead winding and would not even turn over. Replacement starter was stronger and smoother.

A couple of times I had a failed injector. But engine still cranked fine, just cold idled roughly or was down on power (running on 5 cylinders). Sometimes took weeks before check engine light.

My ignition switch eventually occasionally failed to do anything when turned to start position, unless I jiggled the key while turning it. I eventually had the ignition switch replaced (which fortunately does NOT require a key change, since it is a separate part from ignition lock).

So you could have any one or combination of these problems (like failing starter and bad injector, or corroded battery connector and failing ignition switch, etc.).