Hatch latch fixed -- rip-off avoided

My 1999 Outback had a sticky latch on the hatch that has bothered me for years. Fairly frequenty I could not open the hatch normally without ripping out the upholstery and spraying WD40 blindly onto the latch mechanism.

Finally even that didn't work. Peering down through narrow access holes I could see that a spring-loaded sliding part was not sliding far enough back (against the spring) to unlock the latch.

Figuring that something hidden was broken or worn out, I plunked down $202 for a new "hatch latch assembly. I was told that the charge for installation was another few hundred . But I balked at that.

Turns out that the replacement of that assembly was only an hour's job

-- for the first experience. If I had to do it again, I could do it in ten minutes.

It is a trick to detach the two long actuator rods, one from the outside handle and another from the lock mechanism. The first was a surprise; write me if you need to know how. If you buy the replacement part, you can see easily how to do it.

You have to detach two connectors; both come out straight along their long axes, but has a locking mechanism you need to squeeze.

For the rest, it is three bolts out and you can wriggle the old one out and put the new one in.

But perhaps a new part is not necessary, and knowing what I know now, I might have saved the $202. The sticking part may need only some lubrication. You can't get at it without removing the part and looking at its bottomt, but when you do, you can see how to lubricate it. Once you know how to pull or replace the part, it is easy.

I paid so you may not have to!

Uncle Ben

Reply to
Uncle Ben
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out sideways from the rod and fits into a plastic bushing on the handle. = Just pull it out towards the driver's side. Force it out!

art is otherwise free. Both come out straight along their

m without removing the part and

Reply to
Uncle Ben

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sideways from the rod and fits into a plastic bushing on the handle. Just pull it out towards the driver's side. Force it out!

is otherwise free. Both come out straight along their

without removing the part and

Reply to
Uncle Ben

WD40 is not a lubricant. The "WD" stands for "Water Dispersant". It was actually developed as a spray for nuclear missiles to keep them from rusting while sitting in the silos waitng to be deployed!

Go to a GM dealer (steel thyself!) and get Rust Penetrant and Heat Riser Lubricant, ~$9-12 per can. It is the BEST stuff I have ever seen! I use it on stuck bolts, cables, linkages, etc. I found an old Fuji bike sitting behind a store, the shifters were frozen solid and the brakes were too. The chain was rusty and sticking. I sprayed all the cables with this, and then sprayed the chain, and wiped it with a rag. The shifter and the brakes work like new, and the chain looks like it's brand new. This stuff is amazing. When I get a car, new or old, I spray everything I think I might have to replace with this stuff once a year and it keeps everything looking new.

Reply to
Hachiroku

Thanks. Actually I tried many oils and a teflon spray, none of which were much help eventually. But it is good to know about the GM product.

UB

Reply to
Uncle Ben

Ben,

Love this sort of post--thanks for taking the time to share this info with us.

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

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