Battery drain, suspect bad alarm install.

Hi, I have a Clifford AutoImmobilizer that was installed by the car dealer back in 1994. The car is a '92 Ford Taurus and after the alarm was installed, the flash-to-pass feature stopped working and my battery would drain within three days if the car wasn't driven for at least an hour. The dealership folded a long time ago and used to deny they did anything wrong.

While the battery drain annoys the hell out of me, I haven't got a mechanic I trust to look at it, the last one I asked said they needed to take the steering column apart without even suggesting that they test the fuses, so I didn't leave the car with them.

The constant supply wire to the alarm (with the 5 amp fuse) is just tucked behind another fuse in my fuse box. If I take the fuse out, the wire falls out. I could actually put the wire behind any fuse and I somehow have the feeling that's very wrong. (The car doesn't start at all if I leave the wire hanging, I tried that once a long time ago too.)

The wiring guide on Clifford's site makes it seem that the constant supply wire should be wired *to* something instead of just being free to be stuck in the fuse box.

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Also if anyone can point me in the direction of very clear directions on how to use an ammeter to check the fuses, I'd be grateful. (Beyond checking fluid levels I'm an idiot when it comes to cars, obviously.)

Thanks,

-D

Reply to
Dylan
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Well, it looks to me like it's a simple thing. The constant supply wire is exactly that. Constant voltage to the box controlling the ignition. If you want to do this right I'd suggest you just disconnect the dang thing. Find out where the starter and ignition wires are cut at and just put a splice back in place and take out the alarm entirely. Who's even going to want to steal a 92' ? As for your question, the problem probably lies within the Clifford unit. It's drawing too much current and is defective. There test to determine if your clifford unit is the problem (which I'd bet it is as aftermarket alarm systems in that time period weren't very reliable). I'd put an meter between the constant power and the fuse and see how much current it draws. Then I'd put it between the + battery terminal and + battery lead to see how much the whole car is drawing. With all the lights off (including the hood lamp) and doors closed you should only see very low current draw. In the single milliamp range. Then disconnect the clifford and see how much it draws. If it drops dramatically with the clifford then you've found the problem (just disconnect the piece of crap) and you'll be fixed up. Like I said before though, you'll have to trace those wires which go to the starter and ignition that are listed on that page you mention. Otherwise it'll never start.

Simple, see ! Steve m....

Reply to
Steve m...

Single digit milliamp seems like a bit too little. Your car stereo will draw that much just to keep the clock and the radio presets. I'd say if you have less than 100 milliamps you're doing pretty good.

-Bruce

Reply to
Bruce Chang

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