How Much to Replace a GM 3.4 DOHC Timing Belt?

Haven't -had- it done, but I've done plenty over the last 10 years or so...

Make, model and year would be nice to know but the typical labor time for a GM "W" body is 4.5 hours. Figure appx. $75.00 for the belt. Multiply the local labor rate by 4.5, add the price of the belt.

Assuming a labor rate of $80.00 per hour, I'd expect the job to be in the $450-$500 range.

It would be wise to replace the timing belt tensioner at this time, also, any other accessory belts that might need changing should be done as removing and re-installing them is part of the job.

Thanks Neil

The car is a 1995 Cutlass Supreme.

Just a cautionary word of warning for if you do not do the timing belt in a timely fashion, they do break or become unusable!

This belt came off a non-interference engine, so it didn't kill the valves, but the car was made immobile.

__________________ Note: To reply, replace the word 'spam' embedded in return address with 'mail'. N38.6 W121.4

Barry

Thanks for the info. The car, (a 1995 cutlass supreme), has 63000 miles on it. I don't plan on pushing my luck, I'm going to get the belt changed. I am trying to size up the cost so I know what to expect, and what else to replace at the same time rather than doing it on the cheap and having to take it all apart again because some other part failed.

I was also toying with the idea of doing it myself. Not sure how much expertise is needed for this job. I doubt I will. The GM cam shaft timing tools cost over $200, which is a lot to spend for something that will only be used every 60,000 miles.

The manufacturers recommended interval is 60K miles, so you're due.

The factory tools aren't necessary as long as the belt hasn't broken or for some other reason, the cams have gone out of time,

-OR- the cam sprockets need to be removed. Just bring #1 cylinder up to top dead center compression stroke, mark -all- of the sprockets (5 plus the crankshaft) with their own timing marks with a fine file and a dab of paint, THEN remove the old belt and install the new one.

Done it this way many times without problems.

"KC" wrote

Follow Neil's advice about how to simply mark the sprocket location and then you will not have to use the "special" tool. I can't remember the last time I used the special tool, so far I've been fairly lucky and the original factory paint marks have always been visible.

A couple of things I would just comment on. Make sure that you replace the two plastic idler pulleys, they are often the cause of the belt going belly up in the first place. And, when you mark the sprockets with the old belt in place, and then install the new belt, depending on how much the belt has stretched, you will notice that the front cam marks line up quite close, but the rear cam marks may appear to be slightly out. This is simply from the belt stretching.

Ian

Had to pull the sprockets on one many years ago, but can't remember what I did exactly, I do know I made my own tool but can not now remember who borrowed it and didn't return it.

Haven't had a customer yet who's willing to pay to have the rear head removed to replace the oil pump drive O-ring, so I slit a distributor gasket and spiral it into place, then use a bead of Chrysler engine RTV. Haven't had on come back leaking yet, and I

-do- remember the lengthy discussion on i-atn about doing this type of repair. Yup, as long as no one sweats the details at GM, we got job security.

Guys, since you all seem to be well acquainted with this engine, do you have any other maintenance advice for me? As I mentioned earlier, the car is a

1995 Olds Cutlass convertible with 63,000 miles on it. I purchased it this past winter and have it parked until the weather warms up.

I change the oil in my cars every 3000 miles. Is there anything else I should do maintenance-wise in particular with the 3.4 engine?

Before I start driving it this spring I plan on: Replace timing belt, (idlers and actuator as well) Replace serpentine Replace spark plugs Flush cooling system (it has Dex-Cool in it) Replace Air Filter Replace Fuel Filter Change transmission fluid and filter I don't see any oil leaks yet, but I've read that issue with the oil pump O-ring is not if it will leak but when.

But anyway, any maintenance advice you can pass along about this engine would be appreciated

Looks like a pretty good plan.

"Neil Nelson" wrote

Geez, was that comment kinda directed sideways at me?...Heh heh. Of course, I'm sure that discussion has happened a number of times on i-atn.

Ian