1991 4 cyl DL Camry - End of the Road at over 225,000 miles?

Hi, all...Sorry, this is going to be a long message!

I have a 1991 Camry 4 cyl DL, purchased new (8 miles on OD), and has a little over 225,000 miles on the OD now.

Today I was going to go to work for a few hours and then go shopping for essencials in New Jersey but could not even get it out of the co-op's garage. As I was driving down from the 4th floor to the 3rd and getting ready to go down the ramp to the 2nd floor level whenever I gave it the gas it started to stall out badly. I have installed on the dash the following gauges: Voltage, amps, Oil pressure, Tachometer and Vacuum. When I pressed on the gas the tach showed a drop from 1,500 to around 500 and the vacuum pressure was being very erratic. The Oil pressure was showing over 50psi, even when I drove the car to an available parking spot on the 3rd floor and let the car idle up to regular engine temps from a cold start. I had to maintain engine speed at over 1,000 rpm's by depressing the gas - otherwise the rpm's would drop to 500 and being to stall/did stall. Had to start the car several times.

Decided that it would not be a good idea to take it out onto the road. I stopped the car and checked the fluids. The oil stick was barely showing any oil. Now, this was strange, I made a ski trip to Ludlow, VT from New York City with my nephews a few years back and while I was going over the mountain pass to Londonderry, VT where we were staying, the Engine oil idiot light lit up. The oil pressure gauge showed "Zero pressure" We got down the pass into Londonderry & stopped at a gas station. There was NO Oil showing on the oil stick. Got 4 quarts & drove to the Frogs Leap Inn in Londonderry (about a couple of miles) when the light lit up again. Drove to the back of the inn were we were staying at the pool house. I got out and saw to my horror a steady trail of oil on the snow. This was the time I had installed the gauges. The idiots at the shop installed the sensor on a tube connecting to the engine. The vibrations, of course, caused a crack in the tube. I had this fixed at a local garage. My point is that the car kept running, even when there was about a quart of oil left in the pan!

I went back home and found 3 bottles of castrol 10w30 and put it into the engine. I did not start the car at this time - walked to the local Strauss Auto Store & got a case of oil & dry gas.

Got back to the car and checked for leaks under the car. There appeared to be a wet spot, thin, about 6-8 inches long. This was below the area in the front of the traversed engine where the belts are at. Hmm...

Started the car. went outside & open up the hood to give a listen (before starting, I checked the radiator - ok, Oil stick was past full level). Began to notice engine noise anomoly. It sounded that I was inside the car tapping the gas pedal every second. The headlights would get brighter also at this fequency. The car progressivly was sounding worst and vibrating more. I got in the car, put it into drive (after engine reached operating temps) and move the car in and out of the parking spot. Pressing the gas it was ok, except that when I had the car parked again and raced the engine past 1,500 rpm's the vacuum gauge was not exibiting steady progression/regression. It was jerking from 20 to zero, back up to 10, more jerks/sticking. I turned off the engine.

Got out of the car and notice where I drove the car lines of dampness on the concrete - exatly in line of the wet spot mentioned above. Put my fingers on the stuff and noticed that it was not oily - more like water (water pump going bad?) This is happening at a bad time (when is it ever a "good time") since My Wife has just started Radiation treatments for her breast cancer she came down with in 2005.

Wonder if I should try to drive it to the local mobile repair station (a few blocks away) or call them for a tow...

Funny, I was parked next to a Late model Toyota Matrix. It's about the same size as our 1991 Camry, but taller. I wonder if this is a sign...

Thanks for any thoughts on this topic... Vic

Reply to
vic
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Before you drop $3000 or more on repairs, you have a car that is worth no more than $3000 after the repairs. Does this make sense? What do you think.

Reply to
Alex

just as a side note...you say both times you checked the oil dipstick and there was nothing on it you first dumped 4qts then the second time 3.

I just thought you should know that just because the dipstick is dry DOESN'T mean the car has no oil in it. if there is no oil on the dipstick, add one qt then check the stick and then add if necessary.

Reply to
justinm930

Its easy to think bad things have happened, when in actual fact you may have a couple of small faults

If the ignition is tossing in the towel when you apply throttle,..the revs will go down and vaccuum will also dive. The real culprit maybe a stuffed coil, leads or dizzy cap. The same thing could happen if fuel delivery is marginal thru a blocked fuel-filter, crap around the pump pick-up etc/

You have a fault in the ignition or fuel system,...I'd wager nothing more.

Not relevant to the poor runnng.

Now,

That's right. Provided the oil-pump has some oil left to pump, the engine is relatively safe as long as you aren't cornering hard causing oil to run to one side of the sump.

In addition, provided at no time the engine was under load with the oil-pressure at zero, the engine will have no damage. If it did suffer this, then there maybe some permanent bearing-journal damage which will show up as a noisy engine with sustained low oil-pressure.

Sounds like a seal has failed on the oil-pump drive, or the sump gasket is stuffed.

Difficult to say what's going on here. However, provided the engine is reasonabley quiet and the automatic trans is OK, it maywell be a simple problem tied up with idle-control and the transmission control cctry.

The whole thing could be no more than a couple of hundred to repair as there is no evidence of catastrophic failure. Ask an honest mechanic to give you a quote.

Jason

Reply to
Jason James
91 coils are known to short from distributor O ring leaking oil shorting out coil till warmed and dry, Warming up motor and letting sit for one hr can dry it, But an easy thing to try is remove distributor cap and clean coil with alcohol and rag and behind with electronics cleaner. You may have ruined bearings and that is your nock, a compression test might give some idea to motor life but it could be electrical even plug wires shorted. Does oil level rise after 5 to 30 minutes , on old GM v8 the head return oil ports could clog from never changing oil enough making oil pool in the head reading the dipstick empty on immediate cheking after turn off. Look for some minor issues first. I have a 91 4 camry, coil getting oil on it and shorting, and bad plug wires have been my main issues. If it still gets a bearing knock well then you know, Many things even a vacume leak cause a vac gauge to jump around. There are Vacume patterns for you to study, patterns the gauge displays, I read them 20 years ago but if I remember there are maybe 10 distinct patterns that relate to specific problems. Good luck
Reply to
m Ransley

I wish to thank you all for you posts!

I wish to state a couple of caveats before listing what the local Mobile Gas Repair shop said/did to the car:

- It was not possible to get the car to my usual garage. They are very good at what they do. One time found a problem and fixed it that I kept mentioning to the service department at where I bought the Camry and they either did not find the fault or thought my complaint was too "esoteric". Other repair jobs my regular garage explained to me that was not necessary at that particular time. A great staff.

- My current financial situation precludes me from pursuing buying/leasing option at this time (even though about 2 years ago I was planning a target purchasing date for around now fot a new "Toy"). My wife was diagnosed with breast cancer in March of last year and is currently receiving radiation treatments after chemo. Our medical plan at work, in addition to paying part of the cost of the plan per month, has high co/pays ($25/visit, $250 out of hospital fee, $500/overnight stay at hospital & Anesthesia not covered). In September she fell at home from the effects of the chemo and her bone-thinning medication for epilepsy, which her doctor has been trying to get her off it for the past 10 years. She broke both bones attached to her right ankle. The surgeon told me after the surgery it was one of the worst fractures he's seen in a while). Since Hospitals/HMO's don't like to keep patients had to pay $500 for overnight after emergency and am expecting another $500 bill when she went back in for the surgery. Extra expenses of parking garages, outside meals, increased fuel usage for car (just when the price at the pump hits all time highs in this country) has added to the huge drain in funds that was allocated towards a new car/paying off ccards. Other cost intruded as well...Dental bills (root canals, post & crowns, etc) & pet bills for our 3 cats at home (we have no children)- 2 of which, alas, passed away a week and a half of each other, just right before Christmas.

Ok, so it was (hopefully) better to try to repair the car than going the buy/lease/higher auto insurance route at this time. Here's da list:

- water pump - timing belt (has not been changed in a "long" time - dry rot mentioned)

- power steering pump (should have thought of this on last visit to expressway lube and was told they needed to add brake fluid) - entire distributer assembly replacement - valve cover gasket

- oil pressure switch (one of 3 areas of oil leakage on/around engine - they tried 3 oil pressure sender switch but none sends correct pressure info to gauge

- Manager (a 1980's Supra owner/lover & rebuilder) will try another source) - fuel filter - rotor - front cover seal kit - high pressure hose - cap, wires & plugs - right side axle

- struts (could have put this off but wife was starting to feel like she was in a cement mixer - she's going though enought crap right now!)

- tuneup/oil/antifreeze done (noticed that after getting car idle after warm-up is now around 800rpm's in stead of the 500rpm's before this repair - this hopefully will allow a/c usage w/o worry of stall)

- and, of course, LABOR!!! (gave me a break on some of this due to all that was being done!)

All above warrantied for 12 months/12000miles - since some of these items are first time replace/repaired Supra manager said it should be good for another

200,000 miles (?!?)

Once again, thanks all... Vic

Reply to
vic

Yea things you should do, but you just need it running first, it it isnt trashed

Reply to
m Ransley

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