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Head Gasket DIY... any help ??

Hey - 94 2.2L Camry had a leaky clamp at the bottom of the radiator, got off the motor way last week and didn't spot the heat was through the roof, in time for the engine to die as I stopped at the lights, it was HOT.

Waited for a few hours, took off the rad cap, refilled with hot water, and left the cap off while i turned it over, water flowing out the rad filler nozzle. I diagnose that as one cooked head gasket, maybe more.

There is no way I can afford to get this done nor is the car even worth the money to get this done.

Can anyone out there help with a DIY or a location where i can get the info to enable me to DIY it myself, I am attempting this tonight, on the road outside my flat, with no knowledge, other than I have to get the head off it and prolly get it ground then replace the gasket and the head. If that fails its going to the graveyard.

Its an awesome vehicle and the vehicle has done 475,000 k's, while the engine is only up to about 92,000 k's and due to a recent service which i can't prove they didn't tighten my radiator hose clamp.

It would be a real shame to see it end like this. Any help appreciated thanks guys,

Cheers Guy

Reply to
ixplorer
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Seems to me like you jumped to a big conclusion here, unless I am missing something.

is gone. Of course, if you just want the practice of putting a new one on....your local library should have a camry repair manual that details the procedure.

Reply to
timbirr

Strongly recommend you read and understand the Factory Service Manual for special procedures. I believe you need to replace the head bolts because they stretch. I think you tighten the new ones to 30 ft. lbs, then turn an additional

90 degrees. It should all be in the manual for the 5S-FE engine. You can read it at this link:

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Reply to
Daniel

Unfortunately, given the details, it's likely the head will need work, but make sure the engine is pumping water out and or, running roughly due wetted plug/s and or, evidence of a milk- coffee coloured deposits in the oil-filler hole.

In any of these events, the head will require careful checking, once it's off. Warp is one. If the head is warped, the cams maybe siezed, so special care needed there. A crack test is always good insurance as well. In light of all this, a secondhand engine may well be worth sussing out (check for sludge in the oil-filler hole plus any signs of coolant staining on the sides of the block). Make sure it carries a warranty.

You can be lucky. Recently I helped with a similar problem with an alloy OHC head on a Ford 6. We got away with just a gasket which had blown between two cylinders. It had no warp and because he had limited funds,a careful check of the head revealed no cracks. This check was only a visual,..but we got away with it. He had known he was losing coolant and drove the car carefully for the few days before head removal, by continually adding water as required. Never add cold water with engine hot, unless it's running.

If you got the head very hot, and a freeway or high speed hiway will do it in most cases,..then careful assessment is needed, per above.

BTW, warp is easily checked: place the edge of a steel-rule along the cleaned head surface. Then see if you can get a feeler-gauge between the rule and the head. Maximum gap is one thou of an inch per inch of head being checked (usually 12 inches as per steel-rule length).

Jason

Reply to
Jason James

Reply to
Mark Miller

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