Any hints on how to replace broken ignition switch on 74 Bug

It could be either the lock cylinder or the (separate) electrical switch part.

In either event, it is a task to get to.

Remove steering wheel. Remove turn/wiper switches assy.

2 screws hold the metal security plate over the lock. Pull the cable off the bottom of the switch plug. Turn to key to unlock the steering lock and pull the lock cylinder/housing/switch out.

The plastic switch part is held in place by a tiny screw. To get the cylinder out of the housing, depress the flat spring which is visible thru the tiny hole in the housing.

Speedy Jim

Did you try WD-40 in the key slot?

OK.

*Disconnect the battery *Remove the steering wheel *Remove the turn signal/wiper switches

Now you can get to the ignition switch.

It is in two parts. The meachincal half, where the key goes, and the electrical half. Disconnect the ignition switch wires making note of where they go before disconnecting them.

I think there is a small machine screw/set screw at the bottom of the ignition switch area. Remove this screw and stick it on a piece of tape to make it easy to find. Stick you ignition key in the slot and turn it to the right and pull the switch out.

After you get the switch assembly out, you are suposed to take a big nail or ice pick and press in a hole on the side at the 8 o'clock position I think. Mine would not seperate/come out. I had to spray it with WD-40 and let it sit overnight. The next day I clamped two pairs of vicegrips on and twisted. Viola! It came loose.

Earlier D Doppelkabine Subject: Ignition Switch Replacement In 79 Beetle - Solved Date: 2002-05-01 23:37:01 PST

ß-----------Achtung!---------------> Disconnect the battery first!

Here's the real truth: EVERYTHING on the end of the steering column has to come off in order to get to the single screw which holds in the ignition switch. Steering wheel, turn signal/wiper switch, and the entire potmetal housing (which is a single piece) for the turn signal switch and ignition lock/switch. What threw me is that this Super has only 40K miles on it, so none of the usual moving parts were worn enough to fall apart and make this job easy. What DID NOT have to come off was the lock cylinder. You're going to be spending some time in an uncomfortable position with your head under the dash, so you might want to start by taking out the driver's seat and putting a big piece of foam rubber (to protect your spine) over that big bump in the floor pan. Also, you want to bleed all the air pressure out of the washer fluid bottle.

So here's the procedure, for the record:

1. Remove steering wheel cover--unsnap the corners, turn 90 degrees, lift out and disconnect horn wire.

1. Remove steering wheel--once you get off the big nut, it should easily lift off the splines on the column.

2. Slide out that small piece of dashboard that goes UNDER the steering column.

1. Disconnect all wires and hoses from the steering column--3 female plugs and 2 washer fluid lines.

2. Remove turn signal/wiper switch assembly--take out the 4 holding screws and it lifts right out.

1. At this point you may follow Haynes and remove the 2 torx bolts which connect the steering column tube to the underside of the dash. This is not completely necessary, but it does allow the column to wiggle a bit which may help in getting other parts free later.

2. Remove 3rd torx bolt which holds the potmetal housing to the steering column tube--this one IS necessary.

1. Unsnap plastic cover from around head of lock cyclinder, and lift out the odd-shaped piece of metal underneath it which fits in the crook of the lock cyclinder housing--just so they don't get damaged later.

2. If you do need to remove the lock cyclinder for some reason, you will have to drill a hole in the groove that held the preceding piece of metal. Follow directions in Haynes or Bentley for this.

1. On the steering column stub, remove the circlip which holds in the ball bearing assembly, and remove the black plastic bushing from the steering column. If your bushing is in good condition it will NOT want to come off. To prevent damage while removing, wrap a rag around it and carefully wrench it free with Channel Lock pliers.

2. Remove the ball bearing assembly from the steering column, and LIFT OUT the entire potmetal housing assembly as a single piece. Note that there is a second, nearly invisible plastic bushing between the ball bearing assembly and the steering column. If yours is still in good shape (as mine was) the bearing will insist on remaining attached to the column. You have 2 choices--either pry the bearing up from the top with a small screwdriver (risky, but I did it) or tap the potmetal housing upwards from the bottom (also risky, the potmetal is soft and easy to damage). Don't worry about the steering column lock--it will not interfere or be damaged when the potmetal housing is lifted out.

1. Turn over the potmetal housing, and you will see that the plastic body of the ignition switch is held a single screw which was previously unreachable. This was what all the fuss was about!

2. Replace ignition switch, being careful that the hole in the top lines up with the ignition lock mechanism. If you removed the ignition lock previously, you will need to snap it back into place BEFORE you attach the new ignition switch--visa versa will not work. (Ask me how I know and how much time I wasted on this one.)

1. Reassemble in reverse order. You may want to apply some grease to the usual areas as you do so. You may also want to plug in the ignition switch and give it a quick smoke test before you get too far. Hope this will be of some use to the NG in the future. Anyone that maintains a tech library for Beetles is welcome to borrow it.

-- Chris Hobbs and family, Leesburg VA '67 Type 2 DoubleCab (stock) two '74 412 wagons '74 Beetle sedan (standard) '79 Beetle cabriolet

P.S. If you strip out the holes the the turn signal/wiper switch fastens too, I got a fix for that too. jp73vwbttl

Just for the record: the lock housing changed considerably late in '74 model year. So, a lot of what is needed for '79 does not apply to '74 and earlier cars. Speedy Jim

Is this a similar to the procedure you would use on a '71 Bus? Need to replace mine, too.

-- Christian '71 Bus -- Turtle

No, not even remotely similar:-(

Take a look here:

Speedy Jim

Thanks! That'll help a lot.

-- Christian