This summer I've done more work on cars myself than ever before. I
started to think that I want have this truck long enough to need to
repeat some of the repairs I've done. With that in mind, I've started
to use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize compound when I throw everything
Hence, the reason for the post. Are there any parts I should avoid
using the Anti-Seize on? Are there some parts that would have their
lifespan or effectiveness hindered?
I dis-agree on lug nuts. Which is probably the most over-torqued item
on most vehicals on or off the road. I apply anti-seize to the lug studs
on my personal vehicals that I drive on the street.
Im also so Anal Retentive that I thread each lug nut down by hand. If a
lug doesn't come off "just" right, Ill pitch it and get a new one. Nor
will I let some idiot at a tire shop put wheels on my car.
Charles, the SAE torque specs for for wheel studs assume clean dry threads,
that is only reason I say no antiseize. Here in upstate NY in my shop we run
into so may rusted studs it is a problem. So realistically the antiseize is
desirable, but technically wrong.
Thing rust nearly as bad here in Ohio. It not just from road salt
either. Vehicles left sitting for a few months will develop rust in odd
places. Galvanic corrosion, Rust & seized up things cost me way to much
sorry, but every mechanic I've talked to, and every repair manual that
mentions lug studs, say not to use antiseize on them.
It makes sense to me what you're doing-- but then so does the issue
about proper torque values. :shrug: Somebody that knows more than me
want to chime in? I wouldn't mind not having to fight rusted fasteners
every time I take the wheels off my 4X4,. either....
I use Anti-Seize on my cars, been doing it for at least 20 years. I know the
book says they should be clean and dry but I feel the important thing is
that the torque is equal. If the studs are rusty the torque won't be equal,
you know the people working in the tire shop aren't going to clean them. I
put anti-seize on them once the first time I rotate my tires, I also apply
it around the hub. I applied it 17 years ago to my 1988 Oldsmobile and have
never had to had to re-apply it.
Bottoms Up Diver
How about the threads on either side of tie rod ends? Actually, I hope
it ok because I already did it. There's a second nut to lock the tie
rod end on the one side and a cotter pin in the other. I just wanted it
to go easier the next time I might need to replace them.
Do NOT use Anti-Seize on bearing fits or any other press fit.
That nice silver color is metal powder and it takes up clearance.
Metal powder is also not something you would want to wind up in
bearings or gears as it accelerates wear.
I don't use any lubricant at all on wheel nuts since I found that they
wouldn't stay tight unless they were dry. In the old days removing
the hubcaps guaranteed you would break studs. These days the nuts are
not drilled through and they don't rust on like they used to even here
where we have enough salt on the road in the winter to harden your
Not really as long as you are not using it where the anti sieze can
contaminate something else. Myself I have been using grease or 90w oil
for years with excellant results especailly in rust prone areas.
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I put a little oil on wheel studs to make sure they don't freeze.
Apparaently torque against the
wheel is overriding. The only time I have had trouble with wheel nuts
backing off was a 73 Ford
where tire dealer didn't tighten then properly after putting on snow tires.
With the advent of 100 thousand mile spark plug change intervals, a lot of
people recommend using anti-seize on the plug threads. There are pro's and
con's to this, but just be sure not to get any on the insulator or the
electrodes. The particles in the anti-seize are conductive and can cause a
uh, hello? This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.
People in the know have been putitng antiseize on spark plug threads
since the 60s at least-- it all has to do with having dissimilar metals
together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing
I vividly remember putting antiseize on the threaqds of the spark plugs
in my dad's old MGB when I was 5 years old or so. Don't think it was
even an aluminum engine...
I know dissimilar metals aren't the only reason to use. I also know
that rust takes time to form. However, it has nothing to do, directly,
with the 100,000 mile service interval [which is complete horseshit,
Correlation does not equal Causation.
The time it takes for "rust" or oxidation to form is
dependent upon (1) the dissimilarity of the two metals in
contact -- dissimilarity in the scale of noblest to least
noble metal, i.e., the further apart in the scale the two
metals are, the more galvanic action; and (2) the solution
the two metals are "immersed" in, e.g., saltwater really
speeding up the process.
Anti-seize compound is made up of aluminum powder/paste,
i.e., quite conductive, but may, in itself, be the
sacrificial "anode" between two other dissimilar metals.
Anti-seize' main purpose is not to halt or slow down
rusting/oxidation, although it may do just that depending
upon the situation -- its main purpose is to... TADA!!!
prevent seizing of parts. It can be used successfully and
without downstream issues on head bolts, starter bolts,
intake/exhaust manifold bolts/studs, exhaust flanges, mating
exhaust pipes/mufflers, (not on any internal engine
component, all external applications, especially if exposed
to the elements), and lug nuts.
The key to using on any torque value-sensitive task is (A)
cleanliness of the mating parts PRIOR to conservative
application of the anti-seize compound (the micro-welds
between the mating parts are decreased somewhat but not
enough to affect holding capacity while the surface
imperfections are filled in by the very soft aluminum
powder -- end result is no galling during tightening or
loosening); and (B) torquing gradually to spec, then
retorquing after a certain period of time or use.
Worst thing to use on closed/capped lug nuts is grease --
ask any Porsche purist...
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